CLEANERS
An automatic pool cleaner will dramatically reduce the time spent on weekly maintenance. If you fill your pool with well water, you'll need to add a metal remover.
FILTERS
When cleaning cartridge filters, soak them in a cleaning solution for 24 hours, then hose them off before reinstalling.
D.E. filters should be disassembled and cleaned at least once per season. Is your sand filter 3-5 years old? If so, ask your pool professional if it's time to replace the sand. If your filter pressure gauge indicates that pressure has dropped below the normal reading for a clean filter, check to see if you have a clogged pump or skimmer basket.
CLOSING KIT
Cleaning your sand or D.E. filters when you close your pool for the season will ensure that they are ready for action when you open your pool the following summer. To obtain maximum filtration and energy efficiency, backwash or clean your filter regularly, as required.
GASKETS, O-RINGS, & RUBBER FITTINGS
If your pool has a deck-mounted junction box, check the condition of the gaskets regularly--and replace as needed--to make sure the box cannot be penetrated by water.
When closing your pool for the season, coat all accessible o-rings, rubber fittings, and gaskets with a silicone O-ring lube to keep them from drying out.
HEATERS
To maintain your heater's heating efficiency, follow a regular program of preventive maintenance, including annual inspection and de-liming of the heat exchanger when necessary.
LIGHTING
The addition of fiber optic or automated color changing lighting can dramatically enhance your nighttime pool enjoyment.
PUMPS
Turn the pool pump off before operating the multiport valve. If your pump starts running louder or making unusual noises, shut it off and contact your pool professional. If your pump motor hums but will not start, turn off the power and check to see if the impeller is clogged with debris.
Make a habit of checking and emptying skimmer and pump baskets regularly.
SKIMMERS
To prevent your skimmer basket from tipping over when the pump switches on or off, place a small weight or rock in the bottom (the weight must be larger than the suction pipe below the basket). Check to make sure the skimmer weir is in place and is moving freely. Make a habit of checking and emptying skimmer and pump baskets regularly.
Source : http://www.cheappoolproducts.com
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Thursday, March 19, 2009
Tips on Properly Testing your Swimming Pool Water
The best time for testing your swimming pool water is at dusk. Remember if you are using test strips, when you open the container and get your strip do not dripped any water in the container or it will contaminate. Selects an area of the pool where there is no water coming back to the pool from the filter. You should dip the strip at elbow depth, wait 30 seconds and then compare the colors. If you're using reagent type of a test kit selects a suitable area in the pool, and dip the tester elbow depth, put in the proper amount of drops and compare to the chart.
The next steps are very important to pay attention to. First wait at least four hours after swimmers have left the pool to perform your test. Try to test the water at least four times a week, you should wait at least 8 to 12 hours after a rain storm or a windstorm. Usually weekends are not a good time as your neighbors are mowing the lawn, fertilizing or other summer activities in which the contents of could get in your pool and affect the reading.
Should you get a pH reading of normal for three weeks or more and then suddenly you're pH reading is either low are high, take no action until you can check it again in 24 hours. If you're getting the same reading 24 hours later then make your adjustments. Remember small adjustments do not overdo it. Make your adjustments and test in six hours, and then repeat if necessary. Do not test immediately after putting chemicals in your pool, you should wait at least six to eight hours before testing.
Always keep safety in mind when installing chemicals, never put chemicals in all at the same time. Chemicals should be installed four to six hours apart. Never put calcium hydrochloride in a chlorinator especially with other chemicals such as Tricor or other types of chlorine tablets, this could cause an explosion. Never put chlorine shock in a skimmer as this will damage the internal parts of your filter.
It is best to shock your pool late on Sunday as it is most likely nobody will be swimming for at least 24 hours which is the recommended time to swim after shocking. Shocking your pool should only be done at dusk, this will give the shock time to take affect before the sun comes out. Install any algae inhibitors at least four hours before shocking this will give you the greatest affect.
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The next steps are very important to pay attention to. First wait at least four hours after swimmers have left the pool to perform your test. Try to test the water at least four times a week, you should wait at least 8 to 12 hours after a rain storm or a windstorm. Usually weekends are not a good time as your neighbors are mowing the lawn, fertilizing or other summer activities in which the contents of could get in your pool and affect the reading.
Should you get a pH reading of normal for three weeks or more and then suddenly you're pH reading is either low are high, take no action until you can check it again in 24 hours. If you're getting the same reading 24 hours later then make your adjustments. Remember small adjustments do not overdo it. Make your adjustments and test in six hours, and then repeat if necessary. Do not test immediately after putting chemicals in your pool, you should wait at least six to eight hours before testing.
Always keep safety in mind when installing chemicals, never put chemicals in all at the same time. Chemicals should be installed four to six hours apart. Never put calcium hydrochloride in a chlorinator especially with other chemicals such as Tricor or other types of chlorine tablets, this could cause an explosion. Never put chlorine shock in a skimmer as this will damage the internal parts of your filter.
It is best to shock your pool late on Sunday as it is most likely nobody will be swimming for at least 24 hours which is the recommended time to swim after shocking. Shocking your pool should only be done at dusk, this will give the shock time to take affect before the sun comes out. Install any algae inhibitors at least four hours before shocking this will give you the greatest affect.
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Cleaning Swimming Pool Debris
When preparing to open your pool for the season, clean all leaves and other debris off the cover before removing it.
By emptying your skimmer baskets frequently, you'll help minimize the amount of leaves that end up on the bottom of your pool.
When cleaning the surface of your pool with a leaf net, work your way around the sides first, then clean from the middle of the pool to the sides.
Be sure to empty your leaf net occasionally when cleaning your pool's surface. Otherwise, the net's contents may accidentally end up back in the pool.
Keep the trees and shrubs around your pool trimmed back to minimize the amount of leaves and debris that end up in the pool.
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By emptying your skimmer baskets frequently, you'll help minimize the amount of leaves that end up on the bottom of your pool.
When cleaning the surface of your pool with a leaf net, work your way around the sides first, then clean from the middle of the pool to the sides.
Be sure to empty your leaf net occasionally when cleaning your pool's surface. Otherwise, the net's contents may accidentally end up back in the pool.
Keep the trees and shrubs around your pool trimmed back to minimize the amount of leaves and debris that end up in the pool.
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Weekly Pool Maintenance
- Completely backwash filter (see How to Backwash a DE Filter or How to Backwash a Sand Filter).
- Test water for Chlorine, pH and Alkalinity.
- Adjust pH and Alkalinity as needed.
- Add Chlorine to pool (see Daily Pool Operation).
- Vacuum pool floor and walls if needed.
- Shock pool and add Algaecide.
- Check and adjust water level as needed. Water should be half way up the skimmers.
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Water Maintenance
The primary reason for treating pool and spa water with sanitizing chemicals is to prevent the growth of bacteria which would make swimmers and bathers sick.
These bacteria can cause infections in ears, nose and throat and possibly other more dangerous diseases like Meningitis. Bacterial control is easily accomplished by adding a sanitizer (most commonly Hypochlorous Acid or simply Chlorine) regularly, and then passing the water through a filter to remove the dead bacteria. You then need to be sure that any additional bacteria entering the pool, is met by a sanitizer residual in sufficient concentration to kill this new bacteria as soon as possible.
The primary source of bacteria is the swimmers and bathers themselves. Animals can also contribute significantly to bacteria levels. A large dog may contaminate up to twenty times the volume of water that a human can.
While this all sounds pretty gruesome, it is generally accepted that most harmfull bacteria will be killed when exposed to a free chlorine residual as low as one milligram per litre or in other words one part per million (ppm). By regularly testing the water and adding the required amount of chlorine to the pool, a residual level of 1.0 or 2.0 ppm is easily maintained.
Water Balance
Untreated, or improperly treated water can be a health threat. Chemically balanced and sanitized water, on the other hand, will provide a healthy and visually appealing environment for you, your family and friends.
Balanced water means that chemical demands have been met. If the chemical levels are too low the water will aggressively seek the products it needs by attacking the pool surface and equipment. This may lead to severe corrosion problems. On the other hand, high chemical levels may lead to the formation of scale on the pool surfaces and equipment. Out of balance water can, therefore, cause expensive damage to the pool and may also inhibit the sanitizing process. In simple terms, the pool owner should balance the following variables :
pH
Total alkalinity
Clacium hardness
pH
pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water is. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. values below 7.0 are acidic, and values above 7.0 are alkaline. With pool water we are seeking a pH balance suitable to the pool user, the pool, and sanitizer used. Australian Standard 3633 defines the operating range as 7.0 to 7.8 and the recommended range of 7.2 to 7.6 (SPASA recommend 7.0 to 7.2 for fibreglass pools). Topping up your pool, heavy rain, heavy bathing loads and chemical additions can all change the pH level of your pool water. Incorrect pH levels can have the following effects : Cause swimmer discomfort (itchy skin, red eyes, etc.) Interfere with the action of your pool sanitizer. Effective sanitizing relies on pH values. Therefore, sanitizer and pH levels, should be the measures you check and adjust most often. Regardless of the chlorine type or the chlorination process used, any pH drift above the recommended range(7.0 to 7.8) will inhibit the sanitizing effect of your chlorine.
Total Alkalinity (T.A.)
This is a measure of bi-carbonates, carbonates and hydroxides in your water. The Standard recommends a range of 60 to 200 parts per million (ppm). Your pool builder or pool shop will advise you of the recommended level for your pool. Low T.A. will lead to erosion of the surface of concrete and painted pools. It will also cause the pH levels to be very unstable with small additions of chemicals resulting in major shifts in pH. This is sometimes known as "pH bounce". Total Alkalinity can be changed in the following ways : Adding buffer (bi-carbonate of soda). This raises the Total Alkalinity. Adding acid to your pool to lower pH will also lower Total Alkalinity. Topping-up your pool will change the Total Alkalinity depending on the T.A. of the top-up water. It can be seen that acids will lower the pH and Total Alkalinity. There is an interconnection between these two chemical components and, because of this, they need to be adjusted together. The levels you are seeking to maintain are : pH of 7.2 to 7.8 (7.0 to 7.2 - fibreglass pools) Total Alkalinity of approx. 100 to 120 ppm (60-200 is the recommended range). Check with you pool builder or poolshop for the level required in you pool. Lets assume that the pH is OK but the Total Alkalinity is low. To raise the level, add "buffer" (Sodium Bicarbonate) at the required rate. However, Buffer is an alkali and will also raise pH. Acid (Hydrochloric Acid or Sodium Bisulphate), which is used to lower pH, also lowers T.A. the trick is therefore to raise the T.A. artificially high so that when acid is added, to lower the pH to the correct level , the T.A. is also reduced to the correct range. Note : Hydrochloric Acid must always be diluted (one part acid to ten parts of water) prior to adding to the pool. Always add acid to water, never water to acid.
Calcium Hardness
In simple terms, this measures the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. The recommended range is 80 to 500 ppm. Both Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness need to be brought into balance. If not, low levels will mean the water is corrosive to the pool and/or equipment; high levels will lead to scale formation on pool and equipment. Calcium Hardness tests cannot usually be performed with the standard test kit. We suggest a water sample be taken to an NSPI Accredited Pool Shop for testing. A rough rule of thumb in areas where calcium levels are not naturally high is that testing annually will suffice after the initial adjustment. The only qualification to this is if you are using Clacium Hypochlorite to sanitize your pool. This chemical raises Calcium Hardness levels which may require more frequent testing and adjustment.
Tip....When adding chemicals it is best to add small quantities, leave for a few hours and re-test. Adding large quantities can result in big problems and big expense.
Types of Chlorine
Chlorine is available in a number of different forms. Granular, liquid or tablet, and can also be stabilized or unstabilized (Stabilizing refers to the combining of isocyanuric acid with chlorine to protect it from UV rays, which drastically reduce it's effectiveness). Chlorine can also be generated by a Salt Chlorinator. Each of these different forms has it's own features and benefits. For instance, granular chlorine is convenient, easy to store and relatively cheap, however it cannot be dosed automatically. On the other hand, liquid chlorine is bulky and can't be stored for long periods, but can be dosed automatically. All are satisfactory sanitisers for your pool, so choose the one that best suits your budget and lifestyle. No matter which form you decide to use, the requirement for a residual of 1.0 to 2.0 ppm remains the same.
Source : http://swimming.about.com
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These bacteria can cause infections in ears, nose and throat and possibly other more dangerous diseases like Meningitis. Bacterial control is easily accomplished by adding a sanitizer (most commonly Hypochlorous Acid or simply Chlorine) regularly, and then passing the water through a filter to remove the dead bacteria. You then need to be sure that any additional bacteria entering the pool, is met by a sanitizer residual in sufficient concentration to kill this new bacteria as soon as possible.
The primary source of bacteria is the swimmers and bathers themselves. Animals can also contribute significantly to bacteria levels. A large dog may contaminate up to twenty times the volume of water that a human can.
While this all sounds pretty gruesome, it is generally accepted that most harmfull bacteria will be killed when exposed to a free chlorine residual as low as one milligram per litre or in other words one part per million (ppm). By regularly testing the water and adding the required amount of chlorine to the pool, a residual level of 1.0 or 2.0 ppm is easily maintained.
Water Balance
Untreated, or improperly treated water can be a health threat. Chemically balanced and sanitized water, on the other hand, will provide a healthy and visually appealing environment for you, your family and friends.
Balanced water means that chemical demands have been met. If the chemical levels are too low the water will aggressively seek the products it needs by attacking the pool surface and equipment. This may lead to severe corrosion problems. On the other hand, high chemical levels may lead to the formation of scale on the pool surfaces and equipment. Out of balance water can, therefore, cause expensive damage to the pool and may also inhibit the sanitizing process. In simple terms, the pool owner should balance the following variables :
pH
Total alkalinity
Clacium hardness
pH
pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline the water is. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14, with 7.0 being neutral. values below 7.0 are acidic, and values above 7.0 are alkaline. With pool water we are seeking a pH balance suitable to the pool user, the pool, and sanitizer used. Australian Standard 3633 defines the operating range as 7.0 to 7.8 and the recommended range of 7.2 to 7.6 (SPASA recommend 7.0 to 7.2 for fibreglass pools). Topping up your pool, heavy rain, heavy bathing loads and chemical additions can all change the pH level of your pool water. Incorrect pH levels can have the following effects : Cause swimmer discomfort (itchy skin, red eyes, etc.) Interfere with the action of your pool sanitizer. Effective sanitizing relies on pH values. Therefore, sanitizer and pH levels, should be the measures you check and adjust most often. Regardless of the chlorine type or the chlorination process used, any pH drift above the recommended range(7.0 to 7.8) will inhibit the sanitizing effect of your chlorine.
Total Alkalinity (T.A.)
This is a measure of bi-carbonates, carbonates and hydroxides in your water. The Standard recommends a range of 60 to 200 parts per million (ppm). Your pool builder or pool shop will advise you of the recommended level for your pool. Low T.A. will lead to erosion of the surface of concrete and painted pools. It will also cause the pH levels to be very unstable with small additions of chemicals resulting in major shifts in pH. This is sometimes known as "pH bounce". Total Alkalinity can be changed in the following ways : Adding buffer (bi-carbonate of soda). This raises the Total Alkalinity. Adding acid to your pool to lower pH will also lower Total Alkalinity. Topping-up your pool will change the Total Alkalinity depending on the T.A. of the top-up water. It can be seen that acids will lower the pH and Total Alkalinity. There is an interconnection between these two chemical components and, because of this, they need to be adjusted together. The levels you are seeking to maintain are : pH of 7.2 to 7.8 (7.0 to 7.2 - fibreglass pools) Total Alkalinity of approx. 100 to 120 ppm (60-200 is the recommended range). Check with you pool builder or poolshop for the level required in you pool. Lets assume that the pH is OK but the Total Alkalinity is low. To raise the level, add "buffer" (Sodium Bicarbonate) at the required rate. However, Buffer is an alkali and will also raise pH. Acid (Hydrochloric Acid or Sodium Bisulphate), which is used to lower pH, also lowers T.A. the trick is therefore to raise the T.A. artificially high so that when acid is added, to lower the pH to the correct level , the T.A. is also reduced to the correct range. Note : Hydrochloric Acid must always be diluted (one part acid to ten parts of water) prior to adding to the pool. Always add acid to water, never water to acid.
Calcium Hardness
In simple terms, this measures the amount of dissolved calcium in your pool water. The recommended range is 80 to 500 ppm. Both Total Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness need to be brought into balance. If not, low levels will mean the water is corrosive to the pool and/or equipment; high levels will lead to scale formation on pool and equipment. Calcium Hardness tests cannot usually be performed with the standard test kit. We suggest a water sample be taken to an NSPI Accredited Pool Shop for testing. A rough rule of thumb in areas where calcium levels are not naturally high is that testing annually will suffice after the initial adjustment. The only qualification to this is if you are using Clacium Hypochlorite to sanitize your pool. This chemical raises Calcium Hardness levels which may require more frequent testing and adjustment.
Tip....When adding chemicals it is best to add small quantities, leave for a few hours and re-test. Adding large quantities can result in big problems and big expense.
Types of Chlorine
Chlorine is available in a number of different forms. Granular, liquid or tablet, and can also be stabilized or unstabilized (Stabilizing refers to the combining of isocyanuric acid with chlorine to protect it from UV rays, which drastically reduce it's effectiveness). Chlorine can also be generated by a Salt Chlorinator. Each of these different forms has it's own features and benefits. For instance, granular chlorine is convenient, easy to store and relatively cheap, however it cannot be dosed automatically. On the other hand, liquid chlorine is bulky and can't be stored for long periods, but can be dosed automatically. All are satisfactory sanitisers for your pool, so choose the one that best suits your budget and lifestyle. No matter which form you decide to use, the requirement for a residual of 1.0 to 2.0 ppm remains the same.
Source : http://swimming.about.com
Read More..
Watching your Pool Water Level
Maintain your pool water level halfway up the skimmer box opening
▪ Normally, a pool should lose no more than 1/4 inch of water per day. If you notice a greater loss, suspect a leak.
▪ Loose tiles or cracks in the pool deck may be an indication of a leaking pool.
▪ Cracks and gaps in the bond beam may be an indication that your pool is leaking. If you notice water-saturated soils in the area around the pool, pool pumps or plumbing, your pool may be leaking.
▪ If you see bubbles in the return water when the pool's pump is running, it's likely there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration system.
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▪ Normally, a pool should lose no more than 1/4 inch of water per day. If you notice a greater loss, suspect a leak.
▪ Loose tiles or cracks in the pool deck may be an indication of a leaking pool.
▪ Cracks and gaps in the bond beam may be an indication that your pool is leaking. If you notice water-saturated soils in the area around the pool, pool pumps or plumbing, your pool may be leaking.
▪ If you see bubbles in the return water when the pool's pump is running, it's likely there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration system.
Read More..
Pool Cleaning Procedures
There are a few basic procedures that are efficient and save time which any one can follow. Determining the surface composition before starting the cleanup procedure.
Deck and Cover Cleaning
Remove as much debris as possible from the pool or spa deck and cover before removing it. A quick sweep or hosing can remove the debris near the pool. If the cover is a floating type without a roller system, be sure to fold or place it on a clean surface. Otherwise, when you put it back in place it will drag leaves, grass, or dirt into the pool. If it is a mechanized cover system, any small amount of standing water on top of the cover will slide off as you roll it up. If there is greater amount of water motor will be laboring, so you will need to use the water removal pump. Also be careful to avoid abrasive or sharp surfaces as you drag the cover off of the pool.
Surface Skimming
Dirt floating on the surface of the water is easier to remove than to remove it from the bottom. Remove floating debris off the surface, using a leaf rake and telepole. As the net fills, empty it into a trash can or plastic garbage bag. Do not empty your skimming debris into the garden or on the lawn for the debris is likely to blow right back into the pool as soon as it dries out.
There is no particular method to skim, but as you do, scrape the tile line, which acts as a magnet for small bits of leaves and dirt. The rubber-plastic edge gasket on the professional leaf rake will prevent scratching the tile.
If there is scum or general dirt on the water surface, squirt a quick shot of tile soap over the length of the pool. The soap will spread the scum toward the edges of the pool, making it more concentrated and easier to skim off.
Tiles
Always do the tiles first. Dirt falls from the tiles as they are being cleaned and settles to the bottom of the pool. If you need to remove stubborn stains with a pumice stone, the pumice itself breaks down as you scrub, depositing debris on the bottom.
Use the tile soap and tile brush to clean the tiles. Apply a squirt of tile soap directly to the brush and start scrubbing. To remove stubborn stains and oils, mix one part muriatic acid to five parts of soap. When cleaning tile, scrub below the waterline as well as above. Evaporation and refilling can change the water line. Never use really abrasive brushes or scouring pads to clean tiles they may cause scratches.
Water Level
If you add an inch or so of water to the pool each time you service it, you will probably keep up with normal evaporation. If you wait a few weeks until the level is several inches low, it will take hours to fill. Never leave the water on to fill by itself for it may take longer and most likely you may forget to turn it off.
After rains you might need to lower the pool level. In this case, use your submersible pump and a backwash hose or spare vacuum hose for the discharge. Alternatively, you can run the pool circulation system and turn the valves to waste. If you use this method, remember to return the valves to normal circulation.
Equipment Check
Checking your equipment and maintaining your support system is best way to solve the small corrective problems.
Start by circulation system by following the path of the water. Clean out the pool's skimmer basket and Emptying the contents of the skimmer basket into your trash can or garbage bag.
Next, open the pump strainer basket and clean it. Check the pressure of the filter. There is no point in checking it before cleaning out the skimmer and strainer baskets, because if they are full the filter pressure will be low and will come back up after cleaning the baskets. If the pressure is high, the filter might need cleaning.
Now check the heater for leaves or debris. Turn the heater on and off a few times to make sure it is operating properly. While the heater is running, turn the pump off. The heater should shut off by itself when the pressure from the pump drops. This is an important safety check.
Now check the time clock for the time of the day ; setting for the daily filter runs; setting for the cleaner's clock. Always check the clocks because trippers come loose and power fluctuations or some service work on household items unrelated to the pool can also affect the clocks. Also, electromechanical time clocks are not exactly precision instruments. One might run slightly faster than another, so over a few weeks one might show a difference of an hour or more, upsetting your planned timing schedule.
After the equipment check, look for leaks or other early signs of equipment failure. Clean up the equipment area by removing leaves from around the motor vents and heater to prevent fires, and clear deck drains of debris that could prevent water from draining away from the equipment during rain.
Vacuuming
If the pool is not dirty, simply brush the walls and bottom, skipping the vacuuming completely. If the pool or spa is dirty, however, you have two ways to clean it: vacuuming to the filter or vacuuming with the leafmaster.
Vacuum to filter
Dirt collected from the pool or spa is sent to the filter of the circulation system. This is Vacuuming to filter.
1. Run the circulation system correctly and that all suction is concentrated at the skimmer port. Use your skimmer diverter for this process if dealing with a single port skimmer. If the system includes valves for diversion of suction between the main drain and the skimmer, close the main drain valve completely and turn the open skimmer valve completely . If there are two skimmers in the pool, close off one by covering the skimmer suction port with a tennis ball, there by increasing the suction in the other one. On large pools, you might have to vacuum each half separately.
2. Attach your vacuum head to the telepole and attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum head. Slowly feed the hose straight down into the pool; water will fill the hose and displace the air. When you have fed all the hose into the pool, there is water at the other end.
3. To avoid draining the water from the hose keep it at water level, slide the hose through the skimmer opening and into the skimmer. Attach the hose to the diverter ( with two-port skimmers, insert the hose cuff into the skimmer's suction port). The hose and vacuum head now have suction. The suction port might be in the side of the pool below the skimmer in older pools. In this case you might need to put tennis ball over the skimmer suction port to increase the suction at the wall port. Make sure the hose does not contain a significant amount of air for if air reaches the pump, you will lose prime. If this occurs, remove the vacuum hose, re-prime the pump, then try again.
4. To Vacuum a pool or spa, work your way around the bottom and sides of the pool. If the pool is dirty, vacuum slowly to pick all the dirt, for moving the vacuum head too quickly, will stir up the dirt rather than suck it into the vacuum. If the suction is strong it sucks the vacuum head to the pool surfaces, then you need to adjust the skimmer diverter or valves to reduce the flow. You might also need to lower the wheels on the vacuum head, raising the vacuum head itself. If the suction is weak, you might want to lower the vacuum head or you might need to move the head more slowly around the pool to vacuum it thoroughly.
If the pool is very dirty, strainer basket or filter may be filled. When suction becomes weak, stop vacuuming and empty the strainer basket or clean the filter.
If the pool contains both fine dirt and leaves, the leaves will clog the strainer basket. You can use a leaf canister, which is an inline strainer that collects the leaves and allows fine dirt to pass on to the filter.
If the spa operates on the same circulation system, as the swimming pool, simply lift the vacuum out of the pool and immediately place it into the spa. Do this quickly because while the vacuum is out of the water, air enters the hose, causing it temporarily to lose suction. There should be enough water in the line for it to re-prime itself.
5. When you are finished, remove the vacuum head from the water. The suction will rapidly pull the water from the hose so it is advisable to pull the vacuum head from the pool and the suction end of the hose from the skimmer simultaneously, remove the hose from the water, and drain it on the deck.
6. After removing the equipment from the pool, check the pump strainer basket and filter for any debris. Clean if needed. Replace the skimmer basket.
Vacuum to leafmaster
Leafmaster is used instead of the vacuum if the pool is littered with leaves or heavy debris, then allowing the fine dirt to settle and vacuuming to the filter.
1. A garden hose is attached to a water supply and then to the leafmaster. Clip the leafmaster onto the telepole.
2. Place the leafmaster in the pool. Turn on the water supply and vacuum, covering the pool floor and walls. Because the leafmaster is large, you can move it quickly and vacuum the pool, taking care not to stir up the debris either by the non floating type of hose or by moving the leafmaster too fast. Emptying the bag periodically may be needed if there is too much of dirt in the pool.
3. Lift and remove the leafmaster slowly by turning it slightly to one side from the water to the surface for pulling it straight up will force the debris back into the pool. Do not turn the water supply off before removing the leafmaster from the pool, the loss of vacuum action can dump the collected debris back into the pool. When the leafmaster is on the deck, turn off the water supply and clean out the collection bag.
Brushing
Brushing removes algae from surfaces of pools or spas. If they are not very dirty, you can skip vacuuming but brush the walls and bottom of the pool, starting from the shallow to the deep end. Directing the dirt toward the main drain so it is sucked to the filter.
SPA AND WATER FEATURE CLEANING
The steps outlined for pool cleaning will work just as well for spas and water features. Here are a few special tips about what you might encounter that is unique to these bodies of water.
* Many spas are made of fiberglass, so take care when vacuuming to avoid scratching the surfaces.
* Vacuum the corners of water features and small spas with the spa vacuum described earlier.
* Evaluate the spa or water feature when you arrive, before you invest a great deal of time in cleaning. Test the chemistry first, so you can determine if you are better advised to drain the unit rather than clean and treat it. If the water or surfaces are very dirty, if the water is extremely hard or cloudy, if the dirt is in among rocks and gravel where it might be very hard to reach, pump out the water and clean the unit that way.
* If you do drain a spa or water feature, be sure the equipment is turned off at the breaker so the time clock won't turn it on before you are ready. You might need to set up your submersible pump and go to another job while the unit is draining. Your submersible has a small hole in the bottom to re-circulate the last inch of water to avoid burning out it's seal, so you can let it run without worrying that it will run dry.
* Before you clean the spa or water feature, clean the filter and run some fresh water (from the garden hose) through the circulation system to purge any dirty water from the lines. Nothing is worse than draining, cleaning, and refilling a spa only to turn the circulation back on and watch dirty water contaminate your work.
* Be extra careful with chemical testing and application. Most spas and water features contain a tiny fraction of the volume of water in a pool, so they can't absorb a mistake the way a pool might. It is better to add chemicals more slowly and in less quantity than you think necessary. You can always add more, but it is a real problem to remove any excess.
Water Testing and Application
Follow the general testing guidelines needed, testing for chlorine residual, pH, total alkalinity, and acid (or base) demand, calcium hardness or total hardness and total dissolved solids should be conducted one a month.
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Deck and Cover Cleaning
Remove as much debris as possible from the pool or spa deck and cover before removing it. A quick sweep or hosing can remove the debris near the pool. If the cover is a floating type without a roller system, be sure to fold or place it on a clean surface. Otherwise, when you put it back in place it will drag leaves, grass, or dirt into the pool. If it is a mechanized cover system, any small amount of standing water on top of the cover will slide off as you roll it up. If there is greater amount of water motor will be laboring, so you will need to use the water removal pump. Also be careful to avoid abrasive or sharp surfaces as you drag the cover off of the pool.
Surface Skimming
Dirt floating on the surface of the water is easier to remove than to remove it from the bottom. Remove floating debris off the surface, using a leaf rake and telepole. As the net fills, empty it into a trash can or plastic garbage bag. Do not empty your skimming debris into the garden or on the lawn for the debris is likely to blow right back into the pool as soon as it dries out.
There is no particular method to skim, but as you do, scrape the tile line, which acts as a magnet for small bits of leaves and dirt. The rubber-plastic edge gasket on the professional leaf rake will prevent scratching the tile.
If there is scum or general dirt on the water surface, squirt a quick shot of tile soap over the length of the pool. The soap will spread the scum toward the edges of the pool, making it more concentrated and easier to skim off.
Tiles
Always do the tiles first. Dirt falls from the tiles as they are being cleaned and settles to the bottom of the pool. If you need to remove stubborn stains with a pumice stone, the pumice itself breaks down as you scrub, depositing debris on the bottom.
Use the tile soap and tile brush to clean the tiles. Apply a squirt of tile soap directly to the brush and start scrubbing. To remove stubborn stains and oils, mix one part muriatic acid to five parts of soap. When cleaning tile, scrub below the waterline as well as above. Evaporation and refilling can change the water line. Never use really abrasive brushes or scouring pads to clean tiles they may cause scratches.
Water Level
If you add an inch or so of water to the pool each time you service it, you will probably keep up with normal evaporation. If you wait a few weeks until the level is several inches low, it will take hours to fill. Never leave the water on to fill by itself for it may take longer and most likely you may forget to turn it off.
After rains you might need to lower the pool level. In this case, use your submersible pump and a backwash hose or spare vacuum hose for the discharge. Alternatively, you can run the pool circulation system and turn the valves to waste. If you use this method, remember to return the valves to normal circulation.
Equipment Check
Checking your equipment and maintaining your support system is best way to solve the small corrective problems.
Start by circulation system by following the path of the water. Clean out the pool's skimmer basket and Emptying the contents of the skimmer basket into your trash can or garbage bag.
Next, open the pump strainer basket and clean it. Check the pressure of the filter. There is no point in checking it before cleaning out the skimmer and strainer baskets, because if they are full the filter pressure will be low and will come back up after cleaning the baskets. If the pressure is high, the filter might need cleaning.
Now check the heater for leaves or debris. Turn the heater on and off a few times to make sure it is operating properly. While the heater is running, turn the pump off. The heater should shut off by itself when the pressure from the pump drops. This is an important safety check.
Now check the time clock for the time of the day ; setting for the daily filter runs; setting for the cleaner's clock. Always check the clocks because trippers come loose and power fluctuations or some service work on household items unrelated to the pool can also affect the clocks. Also, electromechanical time clocks are not exactly precision instruments. One might run slightly faster than another, so over a few weeks one might show a difference of an hour or more, upsetting your planned timing schedule.
After the equipment check, look for leaks or other early signs of equipment failure. Clean up the equipment area by removing leaves from around the motor vents and heater to prevent fires, and clear deck drains of debris that could prevent water from draining away from the equipment during rain.
Vacuuming
If the pool is not dirty, simply brush the walls and bottom, skipping the vacuuming completely. If the pool or spa is dirty, however, you have two ways to clean it: vacuuming to the filter or vacuuming with the leafmaster.
Vacuum to filter
Dirt collected from the pool or spa is sent to the filter of the circulation system. This is Vacuuming to filter.
1. Run the circulation system correctly and that all suction is concentrated at the skimmer port. Use your skimmer diverter for this process if dealing with a single port skimmer. If the system includes valves for diversion of suction between the main drain and the skimmer, close the main drain valve completely and turn the open skimmer valve completely . If there are two skimmers in the pool, close off one by covering the skimmer suction port with a tennis ball, there by increasing the suction in the other one. On large pools, you might have to vacuum each half separately.
2. Attach your vacuum head to the telepole and attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum head. Slowly feed the hose straight down into the pool; water will fill the hose and displace the air. When you have fed all the hose into the pool, there is water at the other end.
3. To avoid draining the water from the hose keep it at water level, slide the hose through the skimmer opening and into the skimmer. Attach the hose to the diverter ( with two-port skimmers, insert the hose cuff into the skimmer's suction port). The hose and vacuum head now have suction. The suction port might be in the side of the pool below the skimmer in older pools. In this case you might need to put tennis ball over the skimmer suction port to increase the suction at the wall port. Make sure the hose does not contain a significant amount of air for if air reaches the pump, you will lose prime. If this occurs, remove the vacuum hose, re-prime the pump, then try again.
4. To Vacuum a pool or spa, work your way around the bottom and sides of the pool. If the pool is dirty, vacuum slowly to pick all the dirt, for moving the vacuum head too quickly, will stir up the dirt rather than suck it into the vacuum. If the suction is strong it sucks the vacuum head to the pool surfaces, then you need to adjust the skimmer diverter or valves to reduce the flow. You might also need to lower the wheels on the vacuum head, raising the vacuum head itself. If the suction is weak, you might want to lower the vacuum head or you might need to move the head more slowly around the pool to vacuum it thoroughly.
If the pool is very dirty, strainer basket or filter may be filled. When suction becomes weak, stop vacuuming and empty the strainer basket or clean the filter.
If the pool contains both fine dirt and leaves, the leaves will clog the strainer basket. You can use a leaf canister, which is an inline strainer that collects the leaves and allows fine dirt to pass on to the filter.
If the spa operates on the same circulation system, as the swimming pool, simply lift the vacuum out of the pool and immediately place it into the spa. Do this quickly because while the vacuum is out of the water, air enters the hose, causing it temporarily to lose suction. There should be enough water in the line for it to re-prime itself.
5. When you are finished, remove the vacuum head from the water. The suction will rapidly pull the water from the hose so it is advisable to pull the vacuum head from the pool and the suction end of the hose from the skimmer simultaneously, remove the hose from the water, and drain it on the deck.
6. After removing the equipment from the pool, check the pump strainer basket and filter for any debris. Clean if needed. Replace the skimmer basket.
Vacuum to leafmaster
Leafmaster is used instead of the vacuum if the pool is littered with leaves or heavy debris, then allowing the fine dirt to settle and vacuuming to the filter.
1. A garden hose is attached to a water supply and then to the leafmaster. Clip the leafmaster onto the telepole.
2. Place the leafmaster in the pool. Turn on the water supply and vacuum, covering the pool floor and walls. Because the leafmaster is large, you can move it quickly and vacuum the pool, taking care not to stir up the debris either by the non floating type of hose or by moving the leafmaster too fast. Emptying the bag periodically may be needed if there is too much of dirt in the pool.
3. Lift and remove the leafmaster slowly by turning it slightly to one side from the water to the surface for pulling it straight up will force the debris back into the pool. Do not turn the water supply off before removing the leafmaster from the pool, the loss of vacuum action can dump the collected debris back into the pool. When the leafmaster is on the deck, turn off the water supply and clean out the collection bag.
Brushing
Brushing removes algae from surfaces of pools or spas. If they are not very dirty, you can skip vacuuming but brush the walls and bottom of the pool, starting from the shallow to the deep end. Directing the dirt toward the main drain so it is sucked to the filter.
SPA AND WATER FEATURE CLEANING
The steps outlined for pool cleaning will work just as well for spas and water features. Here are a few special tips about what you might encounter that is unique to these bodies of water.
* Many spas are made of fiberglass, so take care when vacuuming to avoid scratching the surfaces.
* Vacuum the corners of water features and small spas with the spa vacuum described earlier.
* Evaluate the spa or water feature when you arrive, before you invest a great deal of time in cleaning. Test the chemistry first, so you can determine if you are better advised to drain the unit rather than clean and treat it. If the water or surfaces are very dirty, if the water is extremely hard or cloudy, if the dirt is in among rocks and gravel where it might be very hard to reach, pump out the water and clean the unit that way.
* If you do drain a spa or water feature, be sure the equipment is turned off at the breaker so the time clock won't turn it on before you are ready. You might need to set up your submersible pump and go to another job while the unit is draining. Your submersible has a small hole in the bottom to re-circulate the last inch of water to avoid burning out it's seal, so you can let it run without worrying that it will run dry.
* Before you clean the spa or water feature, clean the filter and run some fresh water (from the garden hose) through the circulation system to purge any dirty water from the lines. Nothing is worse than draining, cleaning, and refilling a spa only to turn the circulation back on and watch dirty water contaminate your work.
* Be extra careful with chemical testing and application. Most spas and water features contain a tiny fraction of the volume of water in a pool, so they can't absorb a mistake the way a pool might. It is better to add chemicals more slowly and in less quantity than you think necessary. You can always add more, but it is a real problem to remove any excess.
Water Testing and Application
Follow the general testing guidelines needed, testing for chlorine residual, pH, total alkalinity, and acid (or base) demand, calcium hardness or total hardness and total dissolved solids should be conducted one a month.
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Automatic Pool Cleaners
Different designs of automatic pool cleaner available today. Basically there are two categories of automatic pool cleaner in common use today and three other technologies which might be in use.
Electric Robot
The electric robot type are the automatic pool cleaner, are expensive and most often found on large commercial pools. It is more like a battery-powered vacuum cleaner with a bag that catches debris as the unit patrols the pool bottom.
Boosterless Water Pressure Designs
Booster Type
Some automatic cleaners work like your leaf vacuum, by sending a pressurized stream of water up into a catch bag, creating a vacuum for the unit as it patrols the bottom. The pressure is created by taking return water and boosting the pressure with a separate pump and motor. This is the boostered type of automatic cleaner.
Boosterless
But in the Boosterless water pressure design there is a small variation in the unit that uses the circulation pump itself as the booster, by connecting to the return line after the pump but before the filter. This style is called boosterless because it uses no separate water pressure boosting device. These units require an automated valve and control system so that the heater doesn't try to operate while the cleaning unit is in operation. This is the drawback of the system. If the cleaner and heater are on simultaneously, the cleaner receives the return water before the heater, thus starving the heater. Low water circulation in the heater will cause it to shut off or overheat. Boosterless cleaners are not popular units because you can't filter and heat the water at the same time you vacuum debris, and also additional expensive plumbing and controls are needed.
Self-cleaning Systems
The bottom of the pool is fitted with a series of jets. These jets would push the dirt from the shallow end to the deep end, each jet sweeping the dirt toward the deepest part of the pool where the main drain would suck it into the filter system. The jets are connected to a diverter at the circulation equipment area. As the water leaves the heater destined for the pool, it passes through the diverter which sends it to the floor jets on the shallow end first, then the deeper jets, and so on. In this type of system it is presumed that the dirt will come loose from the floor by these jets and not stick to the floor, and also the dirt will be only of the finer type that will not clog the main drains. Last, it assumed that these jets, would equally cover all areas of the bottom. Obviously, the jet sweeping action is greatest near the source, then gets progressively weaker as the jetstream moves outward, resulting in uneven cleaning. Some times the water pressure may not be strong enough to power such a system.
This design creates stress on the entire plumbing and equipment system. When the diverter switches flow from one set of jets to the next, the whole circulation gets restricted or closed creating backpressure and stress on the entire system, since this happens three to four times a minute.
Booster Pump Systems
As described earlier, booster pump systems take water after the filter and heater, which is already on its way back to the pool, pressurizing it by a separate pump and motor, then sending this high-pressure water stream through flexible hoses into a cleaner that patrols the pool bottom.
The Booster pump systems are of two styles first is called a vacuum head type which has its own catch bag for collecting debris, much like a vacuum cleaner. The other type is sweep head type that floats on top of the water with long flexible arms that swirl along the walls and bottom, stirring up the debris. A special basket is fitted over the main drain so that the stirred-up debris is caught in either the main drain or the skimmer and any fine dirt is filtered out normally. Let us review the details of each type.
Vacuum head type
Polaris Vac Sweep is the best example of this type. As with other pool and spa equipment, if you understand the leading manufacturer's equipment, you will easily comprehend the operating concepts of the others.
The vacuum unit is with a catch bag and pressurized water from the booster pump enters the unit through the stalk and some is immediately jetted out the tail. This water pressure causes the tail to sweep back and forth behind the unit to brush loose any fine dirt on the bottom that is then filtered out by the pool circulation system. The remainder of the water powers a turbine that has a horizontal shaft with gear teeth to engage comparable gear teeth on the inside of the single left-side wheel and the front right-side wheel. A small right-side drive wheel transfers power to the trailing right-side wheel as the unit moves forward. Some jetted water is diverted to the thrust jet which can be adjusted up or down to help keep the unit from moving nose-up. The head float also serves this function and keeps the unit upright.
Installation Vac Sweeps are available as preplumbed units, where the supply pipe from the equipment to the pool area is plumbed into the original pool plumbing. They are also available as over-deck models, which requires a garden hose be run from the equipment area over the deck to the pool's edge. The booster pump and vacuum unit are identical, only the plumbing between the two are different with these two models. A complete installation guide is provided with the unit when purchased.
Operation Here are few guidelines that will help you keep the vacuum head automatic cleaner cleaning the pool efficiently. Always operate the booster pump with the circulation pump working too. The booster is not self-priming, but relies on the system circulation pump to provide water. If it runs dry, the plastic pump will overheat and may burn out the seal.
Be careful to set the booster time clock to come on at least one hour after the circulation pump and to go off at least one hour before the circulation pump does for, more than that and you are just wearing out components. This allows for slight time differences between the clocks. The vacuum head will cover as much of the pool as it's going to cover in about three hours.
Then install the catch bag to capture fine dirt and sand. Empty the catch bag as needed. Make sure the openings on the bottom and through the center of the unit are not clogged with large leaves so there is always a clear path for the debris to get into the bag.
Repairs Perhaps the simplest way to explain the few repairs needed by these cleaners is to list the symptoms of the problems you might encounter.
1. If water is not flowing out one or more of the jets in the vacuum unit, it may be because the jets inside the unit are small and grains of sand can clog them. To catch these particles that get through the filter, install a fine-mesh strainer at the point where the plumbing connects to the feeder hose. Sometimes dirt or sand can, however, be picked up by the unit and clog any of the internal jets. If this happens, there is probably sand or dirt in other parts of the unit as well. Disassemble the unit carefully note how the unit comes apart so that you will know exactly how to put it back and clean each part thoroughly. Use a thin wire to clear out the jets. Follow the path of the water and simply clean it all out.
2. If vacuum head does not pick up debris, the water pressure supplied to the vacuum might be too powerful for normal operation. This happens when the return pressure is very strong. Special pressure reducing washers can be added at the vacuum hose connection. These washers are smaller in diameter than the plumbing so they restrict the amount of water that flows to the vacuum head.
3. If wheels are not turning, it is because over the period of time the metal drive gear wears out the plastic drive gear inside the wheels. Check to make sure the gears are meshing and that there are enough teeth on the inside of each wheel. If they do not engage properly, replace them. If the wheels are sloppy, they will also fail to properly engage with the drive gear. Replace the wheel bearings, which simply pop in place like a pump seal. Sometimes the wheels are not turning because the vacuum unit is not performing well then the booster pump is not getting enough water because of restrictions in the main circulation system. Clean the filter and circulation system and you will usually find that the automatic pool cleaner works better.
4. If vacuum unit falls over, remove the head float by pulling it off of the stalk, taking care not to break the stalk. If it is full of water, it is not floating the unit upright, replace it.
5. The screws that secure the wheels are made of plastic. Over tightening will snap them, breaking the screw. If this happens, replace the screw.
6. The tail assembly will be the first thing to wear out because it is constantly sweeping the pool bottom and sides. Water will squirt out of parts of the hose where it shouldn't, making the tail swing wildly. To help prevent this, the tail is fitted with rubber rings that absorb the wear, so as you see these rings wearing down, replace them before the tail goes.
7. Wheels seize up. Sometimes the drive wheel gets hung up and actually prevents the wheels from turning. Since the tension for the drive wheel is spring loaded, the tension will either be too much or too little, as the spring wears out. Remove this drive wheel completely from the units. The turbine powers the front wheel on the right side and the single wheel on the left side with the rear right-side wheel just trailing behind. The unit works fine and the wheels never seize up. Try it.
8. Unit gets caught in ladder, corner, or steps. The irregular-shaped pools that are popular today are the automatic pool cleaner's nightmare. if all adjustments and hose lengths are correct but you still have problems, a backup valve is the answer. This valve shuts off the water supply to the vacuum unit about every five minutes, shooting the water out of the valve to act as a jet to pull the unit backwards. Read the directions that come with the backup valve for installation and servicing instructions. They work very well.
9. If unit runs too fast, just skipping over the dirt, simply follow the simple instructions provided and test the pressure at poolside to determine if pressure-reducing washers are needed. On some pool systems the return water pressure is very strong, and the vacuum head pressure is too great for normal operation. If so, this simple reduction technique employs a washer with a smaller diameter than the plumbing, thus restricting the amount of water that can flow to the vacuum head.
This pressure tester is a valuable tool to use when you suspect inadequate pressure might be the cause of sluggish operation. Pressure values and test techniques are explained in the installation booklet or test kit instructions.
Sweep head type
The Sweep head type is a booster pump that floats on the water and has long ,flexible, swirling arms that stir up the debris found along the pool walls and bottom. Arneson is the best example of this type. The main drain uses suction to pull the agitated debris into its basket which is removed and emptied when full, the finer dirt getting caught in the filter.
If you service a pool with one of these units, they are not hard to maintain or figure out. Installation, operation, and troubleshooting guidelines are very much as described previously.
Suction-side Systems
Suction-side automatic pool cleaners uses the suction from the pool's skimmer. In this design, a standard vacuum hose of 1-1/2 inch diameter is connected between the skimmer suction opening at one end and a vacuum head that patrols the pool bottom at the other end.
As the vacuum patrols the pool it collects leaves and other debris and sends it to the pump strainer pot. When the pot fills with obstructions, suction is dramatically reduced, causing the cleaner to become inefficient. To prevent this keep the strainer pot clean or add a leaf collecting canister to the vacuum hose. A simple in line canister is easier than the pump strainer pot and can be purchased at a pool supply store. Troubleshooting will usually find leaves and debris clogged somewhere in the system or the inability of the circulation pump to generate enough suction to make the vacuum effective.
Source : http://swimming.about.com
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Electric Robot
The electric robot type are the automatic pool cleaner, are expensive and most often found on large commercial pools. It is more like a battery-powered vacuum cleaner with a bag that catches debris as the unit patrols the pool bottom.
Boosterless Water Pressure Designs
Booster Type
Some automatic cleaners work like your leaf vacuum, by sending a pressurized stream of water up into a catch bag, creating a vacuum for the unit as it patrols the bottom. The pressure is created by taking return water and boosting the pressure with a separate pump and motor. This is the boostered type of automatic cleaner.
Boosterless
But in the Boosterless water pressure design there is a small variation in the unit that uses the circulation pump itself as the booster, by connecting to the return line after the pump but before the filter. This style is called boosterless because it uses no separate water pressure boosting device. These units require an automated valve and control system so that the heater doesn't try to operate while the cleaning unit is in operation. This is the drawback of the system. If the cleaner and heater are on simultaneously, the cleaner receives the return water before the heater, thus starving the heater. Low water circulation in the heater will cause it to shut off or overheat. Boosterless cleaners are not popular units because you can't filter and heat the water at the same time you vacuum debris, and also additional expensive plumbing and controls are needed.
Self-cleaning Systems
The bottom of the pool is fitted with a series of jets. These jets would push the dirt from the shallow end to the deep end, each jet sweeping the dirt toward the deepest part of the pool where the main drain would suck it into the filter system. The jets are connected to a diverter at the circulation equipment area. As the water leaves the heater destined for the pool, it passes through the diverter which sends it to the floor jets on the shallow end first, then the deeper jets, and so on. In this type of system it is presumed that the dirt will come loose from the floor by these jets and not stick to the floor, and also the dirt will be only of the finer type that will not clog the main drains. Last, it assumed that these jets, would equally cover all areas of the bottom. Obviously, the jet sweeping action is greatest near the source, then gets progressively weaker as the jetstream moves outward, resulting in uneven cleaning. Some times the water pressure may not be strong enough to power such a system.
This design creates stress on the entire plumbing and equipment system. When the diverter switches flow from one set of jets to the next, the whole circulation gets restricted or closed creating backpressure and stress on the entire system, since this happens three to four times a minute.
Booster Pump Systems
As described earlier, booster pump systems take water after the filter and heater, which is already on its way back to the pool, pressurizing it by a separate pump and motor, then sending this high-pressure water stream through flexible hoses into a cleaner that patrols the pool bottom.
The Booster pump systems are of two styles first is called a vacuum head type which has its own catch bag for collecting debris, much like a vacuum cleaner. The other type is sweep head type that floats on top of the water with long flexible arms that swirl along the walls and bottom, stirring up the debris. A special basket is fitted over the main drain so that the stirred-up debris is caught in either the main drain or the skimmer and any fine dirt is filtered out normally. Let us review the details of each type.
Vacuum head type
Polaris Vac Sweep is the best example of this type. As with other pool and spa equipment, if you understand the leading manufacturer's equipment, you will easily comprehend the operating concepts of the others.
The vacuum unit is with a catch bag and pressurized water from the booster pump enters the unit through the stalk and some is immediately jetted out the tail. This water pressure causes the tail to sweep back and forth behind the unit to brush loose any fine dirt on the bottom that is then filtered out by the pool circulation system. The remainder of the water powers a turbine that has a horizontal shaft with gear teeth to engage comparable gear teeth on the inside of the single left-side wheel and the front right-side wheel. A small right-side drive wheel transfers power to the trailing right-side wheel as the unit moves forward. Some jetted water is diverted to the thrust jet which can be adjusted up or down to help keep the unit from moving nose-up. The head float also serves this function and keeps the unit upright.
Installation Vac Sweeps are available as preplumbed units, where the supply pipe from the equipment to the pool area is plumbed into the original pool plumbing. They are also available as over-deck models, which requires a garden hose be run from the equipment area over the deck to the pool's edge. The booster pump and vacuum unit are identical, only the plumbing between the two are different with these two models. A complete installation guide is provided with the unit when purchased.
Operation Here are few guidelines that will help you keep the vacuum head automatic cleaner cleaning the pool efficiently. Always operate the booster pump with the circulation pump working too. The booster is not self-priming, but relies on the system circulation pump to provide water. If it runs dry, the plastic pump will overheat and may burn out the seal.
Be careful to set the booster time clock to come on at least one hour after the circulation pump and to go off at least one hour before the circulation pump does for, more than that and you are just wearing out components. This allows for slight time differences between the clocks. The vacuum head will cover as much of the pool as it's going to cover in about three hours.
Then install the catch bag to capture fine dirt and sand. Empty the catch bag as needed. Make sure the openings on the bottom and through the center of the unit are not clogged with large leaves so there is always a clear path for the debris to get into the bag.
Repairs Perhaps the simplest way to explain the few repairs needed by these cleaners is to list the symptoms of the problems you might encounter.
1. If water is not flowing out one or more of the jets in the vacuum unit, it may be because the jets inside the unit are small and grains of sand can clog them. To catch these particles that get through the filter, install a fine-mesh strainer at the point where the plumbing connects to the feeder hose. Sometimes dirt or sand can, however, be picked up by the unit and clog any of the internal jets. If this happens, there is probably sand or dirt in other parts of the unit as well. Disassemble the unit carefully note how the unit comes apart so that you will know exactly how to put it back and clean each part thoroughly. Use a thin wire to clear out the jets. Follow the path of the water and simply clean it all out.
2. If vacuum head does not pick up debris, the water pressure supplied to the vacuum might be too powerful for normal operation. This happens when the return pressure is very strong. Special pressure reducing washers can be added at the vacuum hose connection. These washers are smaller in diameter than the plumbing so they restrict the amount of water that flows to the vacuum head.
3. If wheels are not turning, it is because over the period of time the metal drive gear wears out the plastic drive gear inside the wheels. Check to make sure the gears are meshing and that there are enough teeth on the inside of each wheel. If they do not engage properly, replace them. If the wheels are sloppy, they will also fail to properly engage with the drive gear. Replace the wheel bearings, which simply pop in place like a pump seal. Sometimes the wheels are not turning because the vacuum unit is not performing well then the booster pump is not getting enough water because of restrictions in the main circulation system. Clean the filter and circulation system and you will usually find that the automatic pool cleaner works better.
4. If vacuum unit falls over, remove the head float by pulling it off of the stalk, taking care not to break the stalk. If it is full of water, it is not floating the unit upright, replace it.
5. The screws that secure the wheels are made of plastic. Over tightening will snap them, breaking the screw. If this happens, replace the screw.
6. The tail assembly will be the first thing to wear out because it is constantly sweeping the pool bottom and sides. Water will squirt out of parts of the hose where it shouldn't, making the tail swing wildly. To help prevent this, the tail is fitted with rubber rings that absorb the wear, so as you see these rings wearing down, replace them before the tail goes.
7. Wheels seize up. Sometimes the drive wheel gets hung up and actually prevents the wheels from turning. Since the tension for the drive wheel is spring loaded, the tension will either be too much or too little, as the spring wears out. Remove this drive wheel completely from the units. The turbine powers the front wheel on the right side and the single wheel on the left side with the rear right-side wheel just trailing behind. The unit works fine and the wheels never seize up. Try it.
8. Unit gets caught in ladder, corner, or steps. The irregular-shaped pools that are popular today are the automatic pool cleaner's nightmare. if all adjustments and hose lengths are correct but you still have problems, a backup valve is the answer. This valve shuts off the water supply to the vacuum unit about every five minutes, shooting the water out of the valve to act as a jet to pull the unit backwards. Read the directions that come with the backup valve for installation and servicing instructions. They work very well.
9. If unit runs too fast, just skipping over the dirt, simply follow the simple instructions provided and test the pressure at poolside to determine if pressure-reducing washers are needed. On some pool systems the return water pressure is very strong, and the vacuum head pressure is too great for normal operation. If so, this simple reduction technique employs a washer with a smaller diameter than the plumbing, thus restricting the amount of water that can flow to the vacuum head.
This pressure tester is a valuable tool to use when you suspect inadequate pressure might be the cause of sluggish operation. Pressure values and test techniques are explained in the installation booklet or test kit instructions.
Sweep head type
The Sweep head type is a booster pump that floats on the water and has long ,flexible, swirling arms that stir up the debris found along the pool walls and bottom. Arneson is the best example of this type. The main drain uses suction to pull the agitated debris into its basket which is removed and emptied when full, the finer dirt getting caught in the filter.
If you service a pool with one of these units, they are not hard to maintain or figure out. Installation, operation, and troubleshooting guidelines are very much as described previously.
Suction-side Systems
Suction-side automatic pool cleaners uses the suction from the pool's skimmer. In this design, a standard vacuum hose of 1-1/2 inch diameter is connected between the skimmer suction opening at one end and a vacuum head that patrols the pool bottom at the other end.
As the vacuum patrols the pool it collects leaves and other debris and sends it to the pump strainer pot. When the pot fills with obstructions, suction is dramatically reduced, causing the cleaner to become inefficient. To prevent this keep the strainer pot clean or add a leaf collecting canister to the vacuum hose. A simple in line canister is easier than the pump strainer pot and can be purchased at a pool supply store. Troubleshooting will usually find leaves and debris clogged somewhere in the system or the inability of the circulation pump to generate enough suction to make the vacuum effective.
Source : http://swimming.about.com
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Cleaning and Servicing Tools
Some of the most commonly used pool cleaning tools are described in next section. You may have used them one time or the other to cleanse your pool.
Telepoles
Telescoping pole or telepole is heart of the cleaning system. Telepoles are made of aluminum or fiberglass. There are several sizes, from a 4-foot pole that telescopes to 8 feet, all the way up to a 12-foot pole that telescopes to 24 feet (by pulling the inner pole out of the outer one). The one you will use most on pools is 8 feet long, telescoping to 16 feet. The end of the pole has a handgrip or a rounded tip to prevent your hand from slipping off the pole. The tip might also include a magnet for picking up hairpins or nails from the pool bottom. To lock the two poles together, there is a cam lock or compression nut ring.
When you purchase your first telepole, take it apart and observe how this cam system works. Sooner or later, scale, corrosion, or wear and tear will clog or jam the cam. Rather than buy an entirely new telepole, you can take it apart, clean it up, replace the cam if necessary, and get on with the job.
The other locking device for telepoles is a compression nut ring. By twisting the ring at the joint of the two poles, pressure is applied to the inner pole, locking the two together.
At the end of the outer pole you will notice two small holes drilled through each side, about 2 inches from the end and again about 6 inches higher. The various tools you will use are designed to fit the diameter of the pole. You attach them to the pole by sliding the end of the tool into the end of the pole. Small clips inside the tool have nipples that snap into place in one of these sets of holes, locking the tool in place. other tools are designed to slip over the circumference of the pole, but they also use a clip device to secure the tool to the holes at the end of the telepole.
Leaf Rake/Skimmer
Leaf rakes are used to remove the leaf and other debris from the pool. Figure 1 shows a professional, deep-net leaf rake. The net itself is made from stainless steel mesh and the frame is aluminum with a generous 16-inch wide opening. There are numerous leaf rakes (deep net) and skimmer nets (shallow net) you can buy, but only the one pictured will last. The cheap ones are made from plastic net material and frames. Although the original price is about twice that of the cheap ones, metal ones last a long time and resist tearing when you are scooping out huge volumes of wet leaves after a windy autumn day. They also stand up to rubbing them along rough plaster surfaces, thanks to a rubber-plastic gasket that fits around the edge, unlike the plastic rakes that break or wear down when you apply such pressures.
The leaf rake shank fits into the telepole and clips in place as described previously. Some leaf rakes are designed so you can disassemble them and replace the netting, which is fine if you have the time and patience to do it.
Wall and Floor Brush
Wall brush are used to remove the dirt, stains and other material sticking on the interior surface. The wall brush is designed to brush pool and spa interior surfaces. Made of an aluminum frame with a shank that fits the telepole, the nylon bristles are built on the brush either straight across or curved slightly at each end.
The curved unit is useful for getting into pool corners and tight step areas.
Wall brushes come in various sizes, the most common for pool use being 18 inches wide. Don't ever use a wire brush that is not stainless steel in a pool or spa. Steel bristles can snap off during brushing and leave stains on the plaster when they rust. Also, if they are a bit rusty already, when you brush the plaster you will transfer the rust to the plaster, causing a stain.
Vacuum Head and Hose
Vacuum are used to suck the dirt out of the pool or spa. There are two ways to vacuum the bottom of a pool or spa. One sucks dirt from the water and sends it to the filter. The other uses water pressure from a garden hose to force debris into a bag that you then remove and clean (leaf vacuum).
The vacuum head and hose are designed to operate with the pool or spa circulation equipment. The hose is attached at one end to the bottom of the skimmer opening and at the other end to the vacuum head. The vacuum head is also attached to the telepole. With the pump running, you glide the vacuum head over the underwater surfaces, vacuuming up the dirt directly to the filter.
Vacuum heads are made of flexible plastic, with plastic wheels that keep the head just above the pool surface. The flexibility of the head allows it to contour to the curvature of pool corners and bottoms. Adjustable-height wheels allow you to set the vacuum head to the best clearance for each pool's conditions. The closer to the surface, the better the removal of dirt. But if the suction is too great, it might suck the vacuum head right onto the surface, rendering it immobile. In this case, adjust the head height upward.
Wheels for vacuum heads are made of plastic or high-tech composite resins. Their bearing systems can be as simple as a hole in the wheel through which the axle is inserted or wheels with ball bearings to distribute the load and help the vacuum glide smoothly.
Some commercial vacuum heads are made several feet wide and are built of stainless steel. Another type is a plastic helmet style, with a ridge of bristles instead of wheels. This vacuum head is used for vinyl pools, fiberglass spas, and when breaking in new plaster. In each of these cases, standard wheels can tear or score the surface. The brush vacuum is not only less harsh, but it brushes dirt loose from the surface being vacuumed for easier removal.
Hoses are available in different models, and in various lengths (10 to 50 feet). The hose cuff is made 1 1/4- or 1 1/2-inch diameter to be used with similar vacuum head dimensions. Cuffs are female threaded at the end that attaches to the hose so you can screw replacement cuffs onto a hose. The best cuffs swivel on the end of the hose, so when you are vacuuming there is less tendency for the hose to coil and kink. Another valuable hose fitting is the connector. It is designed with female threads on both ends to allow joining of two hose lengths-a useful feature when you encounter a large or extremely deep pool.
Leaf Vacuum and Garden Hose
The Leaf vacuum is used when there are many leaves or other debris in the pool. Its effectiveness is dependent on the water pressure form the garden hose. Leafmasters are made in rigid plastic or aluminum.
The leafmaster is one which is attached to the telepole and a garden hose, operates by forcing water from the hose into the unit where it is diverted into dozens of tiny jets that are directed upward toward a fabric bag on top of the unit. The upwelling water creates a vacuum at the base of the plastic helmet, sucking leaves and debris into the unit and up into the bag. Water passes through the mesh of the bag but the debris is trapped.
Fine dirt passes through the filter bag, but a fine-mesh bag is sold for these units that will capture more dirt. When the bag has a few leaves in it, they will also trap much of the sand and other fine particulate matter that would otherwise pass through.
The only other drawback to the leafmaster is if you are in a location where water pressure from the garden hose is weak. The result is weak jet action and weak suction. The other result is that as debris fills the bag, the weight of it (especially wet leaves) tips the bag over, scraping the pool floor, stirring up debris, or tangling with the hose. The latter problem is easily solved by putting a tennis ball in the bag before placing it in the pool. The tennis ball floats, keeping the bag upright.
To remove the leaf vacuum, turn it slightly to one side and slowly lift it through the water to the surface. If pulled straight up, some of the debris is forced out of the bag and back into the pool. So do not turn off the water till the leafmaster is out of the pool water and on to the deck.
Tile Brush and Tile Soap
Tile brush is used to clean the tile. Tile brushes are made to snap into your telepole so you can scrub the tile without too much bending. Mounted to a simple L-shaped, two-part aluminum tube, the brush itself is about 3-by-5 inches with a fairly abrasive foam pad for effective scrubbing.
Tile soap is sold in standard preparation at the supply house. Mix one part of muriatic acid to five parts of soap. This will help cut the stubborn stains and oils, but it will also eat into the plastic on the tile brush pads and plastic barbecue grill brush handle, so keep rinsing them in pool water after each application and scrubbing. Don't use other types of soap in place of tile formulations, because they might foam and suds up when they enter the circulation system.
Spa Vacuum
Cleaning a spa is much like cleaning a pool, only many of the tools are smaller.The smaller version of the leaf vacuum is called spa vacuum. It works on the same principle using a garden hose for water pressure to create suction. The dirt and debris are forced into a small sock and, like the leaf vacuum bag, fine dirt passes through the bag.
The spa vacuum attaches to the telepole and is provided with various attachments, much like a household vacuum cleaner, for getting into crevices or brushing while you vacuum. The spa vacuum is also a useful tool for sucking up small hairpins, nails, coins, or other hard to grab items from the bottom of pools.
Pumic Stones
Pumic stone are used to remove the scale from tiles and other deposits or stains from plaster surfaces without scratching them excessively. The soft pumice stone is made from volcanic ash and is used for its abrasive action. Pumice stones are sold as blocks, and as small bladed stones that attach to your telepole for reaching tight spaces and underwater depths. Since pumice stones disintegrate, it is advisable to scrub before you vacuum clean the pool. A good alternative to pumice, which scratches easily on fiberglass, is a block of styrofoam or similar plastic foam.
Acid Spotter
Many leaves will stain plaster, but they bleach out with normal chlorination over a few days. Some stains simply cannot be removed, such as when rebar or a rebar tie has started to corrode from beneath the pool floor.
The acid spotter is a useful tool, which allows you to deliver full-strength acid to a stain at the bottom of a body of water. The disc portion attaches to the telepole for placement over a stained area. A small plastic hose runs from the disc to a bottle of muriatic acid on the deck. You start a siphon and drain acid into the disc, where it is kept in direct contact with the stain. It is time-consuming and not always necessary.
Water Testing Kits
Test kits and Thermometers are important part of cleaning and maintenance. Using your test kit, perform the necessary test to make chemical adjustments in the water. Pool and Spa owners must still conduct home tests of their pool or spa water at least once a week.
A thermometer is needed to check heater performance, spa temperatures, and other questions or concern about pool or spa water.
Read More..
Telepoles
Telescoping pole or telepole is heart of the cleaning system. Telepoles are made of aluminum or fiberglass. There are several sizes, from a 4-foot pole that telescopes to 8 feet, all the way up to a 12-foot pole that telescopes to 24 feet (by pulling the inner pole out of the outer one). The one you will use most on pools is 8 feet long, telescoping to 16 feet. The end of the pole has a handgrip or a rounded tip to prevent your hand from slipping off the pole. The tip might also include a magnet for picking up hairpins or nails from the pool bottom. To lock the two poles together, there is a cam lock or compression nut ring.
When you purchase your first telepole, take it apart and observe how this cam system works. Sooner or later, scale, corrosion, or wear and tear will clog or jam the cam. Rather than buy an entirely new telepole, you can take it apart, clean it up, replace the cam if necessary, and get on with the job.
The other locking device for telepoles is a compression nut ring. By twisting the ring at the joint of the two poles, pressure is applied to the inner pole, locking the two together.
At the end of the outer pole you will notice two small holes drilled through each side, about 2 inches from the end and again about 6 inches higher. The various tools you will use are designed to fit the diameter of the pole. You attach them to the pole by sliding the end of the tool into the end of the pole. Small clips inside the tool have nipples that snap into place in one of these sets of holes, locking the tool in place. other tools are designed to slip over the circumference of the pole, but they also use a clip device to secure the tool to the holes at the end of the telepole.
Leaf Rake/Skimmer
Leaf rakes are used to remove the leaf and other debris from the pool. Figure 1 shows a professional, deep-net leaf rake. The net itself is made from stainless steel mesh and the frame is aluminum with a generous 16-inch wide opening. There are numerous leaf rakes (deep net) and skimmer nets (shallow net) you can buy, but only the one pictured will last. The cheap ones are made from plastic net material and frames. Although the original price is about twice that of the cheap ones, metal ones last a long time and resist tearing when you are scooping out huge volumes of wet leaves after a windy autumn day. They also stand up to rubbing them along rough plaster surfaces, thanks to a rubber-plastic gasket that fits around the edge, unlike the plastic rakes that break or wear down when you apply such pressures.
The leaf rake shank fits into the telepole and clips in place as described previously. Some leaf rakes are designed so you can disassemble them and replace the netting, which is fine if you have the time and patience to do it.
Wall and Floor Brush
Wall brush are used to remove the dirt, stains and other material sticking on the interior surface. The wall brush is designed to brush pool and spa interior surfaces. Made of an aluminum frame with a shank that fits the telepole, the nylon bristles are built on the brush either straight across or curved slightly at each end.
The curved unit is useful for getting into pool corners and tight step areas.
Wall brushes come in various sizes, the most common for pool use being 18 inches wide. Don't ever use a wire brush that is not stainless steel in a pool or spa. Steel bristles can snap off during brushing and leave stains on the plaster when they rust. Also, if they are a bit rusty already, when you brush the plaster you will transfer the rust to the plaster, causing a stain.
Vacuum Head and Hose
Vacuum are used to suck the dirt out of the pool or spa. There are two ways to vacuum the bottom of a pool or spa. One sucks dirt from the water and sends it to the filter. The other uses water pressure from a garden hose to force debris into a bag that you then remove and clean (leaf vacuum).
The vacuum head and hose are designed to operate with the pool or spa circulation equipment. The hose is attached at one end to the bottom of the skimmer opening and at the other end to the vacuum head. The vacuum head is also attached to the telepole. With the pump running, you glide the vacuum head over the underwater surfaces, vacuuming up the dirt directly to the filter.
Vacuum heads are made of flexible plastic, with plastic wheels that keep the head just above the pool surface. The flexibility of the head allows it to contour to the curvature of pool corners and bottoms. Adjustable-height wheels allow you to set the vacuum head to the best clearance for each pool's conditions. The closer to the surface, the better the removal of dirt. But if the suction is too great, it might suck the vacuum head right onto the surface, rendering it immobile. In this case, adjust the head height upward.
Wheels for vacuum heads are made of plastic or high-tech composite resins. Their bearing systems can be as simple as a hole in the wheel through which the axle is inserted or wheels with ball bearings to distribute the load and help the vacuum glide smoothly.
Some commercial vacuum heads are made several feet wide and are built of stainless steel. Another type is a plastic helmet style, with a ridge of bristles instead of wheels. This vacuum head is used for vinyl pools, fiberglass spas, and when breaking in new plaster. In each of these cases, standard wheels can tear or score the surface. The brush vacuum is not only less harsh, but it brushes dirt loose from the surface being vacuumed for easier removal.
Hoses are available in different models, and in various lengths (10 to 50 feet). The hose cuff is made 1 1/4- or 1 1/2-inch diameter to be used with similar vacuum head dimensions. Cuffs are female threaded at the end that attaches to the hose so you can screw replacement cuffs onto a hose. The best cuffs swivel on the end of the hose, so when you are vacuuming there is less tendency for the hose to coil and kink. Another valuable hose fitting is the connector. It is designed with female threads on both ends to allow joining of two hose lengths-a useful feature when you encounter a large or extremely deep pool.
Leaf Vacuum and Garden Hose
The Leaf vacuum is used when there are many leaves or other debris in the pool. Its effectiveness is dependent on the water pressure form the garden hose. Leafmasters are made in rigid plastic or aluminum.
The leafmaster is one which is attached to the telepole and a garden hose, operates by forcing water from the hose into the unit where it is diverted into dozens of tiny jets that are directed upward toward a fabric bag on top of the unit. The upwelling water creates a vacuum at the base of the plastic helmet, sucking leaves and debris into the unit and up into the bag. Water passes through the mesh of the bag but the debris is trapped.
Fine dirt passes through the filter bag, but a fine-mesh bag is sold for these units that will capture more dirt. When the bag has a few leaves in it, they will also trap much of the sand and other fine particulate matter that would otherwise pass through.
The only other drawback to the leafmaster is if you are in a location where water pressure from the garden hose is weak. The result is weak jet action and weak suction. The other result is that as debris fills the bag, the weight of it (especially wet leaves) tips the bag over, scraping the pool floor, stirring up debris, or tangling with the hose. The latter problem is easily solved by putting a tennis ball in the bag before placing it in the pool. The tennis ball floats, keeping the bag upright.
To remove the leaf vacuum, turn it slightly to one side and slowly lift it through the water to the surface. If pulled straight up, some of the debris is forced out of the bag and back into the pool. So do not turn off the water till the leafmaster is out of the pool water and on to the deck.
Tile Brush and Tile Soap
Tile brush is used to clean the tile. Tile brushes are made to snap into your telepole so you can scrub the tile without too much bending. Mounted to a simple L-shaped, two-part aluminum tube, the brush itself is about 3-by-5 inches with a fairly abrasive foam pad for effective scrubbing.
Tile soap is sold in standard preparation at the supply house. Mix one part of muriatic acid to five parts of soap. This will help cut the stubborn stains and oils, but it will also eat into the plastic on the tile brush pads and plastic barbecue grill brush handle, so keep rinsing them in pool water after each application and scrubbing. Don't use other types of soap in place of tile formulations, because they might foam and suds up when they enter the circulation system.
Spa Vacuum
Cleaning a spa is much like cleaning a pool, only many of the tools are smaller.The smaller version of the leaf vacuum is called spa vacuum. It works on the same principle using a garden hose for water pressure to create suction. The dirt and debris are forced into a small sock and, like the leaf vacuum bag, fine dirt passes through the bag.
The spa vacuum attaches to the telepole and is provided with various attachments, much like a household vacuum cleaner, for getting into crevices or brushing while you vacuum. The spa vacuum is also a useful tool for sucking up small hairpins, nails, coins, or other hard to grab items from the bottom of pools.
Pumic Stones
Pumic stone are used to remove the scale from tiles and other deposits or stains from plaster surfaces without scratching them excessively. The soft pumice stone is made from volcanic ash and is used for its abrasive action. Pumice stones are sold as blocks, and as small bladed stones that attach to your telepole for reaching tight spaces and underwater depths. Since pumice stones disintegrate, it is advisable to scrub before you vacuum clean the pool. A good alternative to pumice, which scratches easily on fiberglass, is a block of styrofoam or similar plastic foam.
Acid Spotter
Many leaves will stain plaster, but they bleach out with normal chlorination over a few days. Some stains simply cannot be removed, such as when rebar or a rebar tie has started to corrode from beneath the pool floor.
The acid spotter is a useful tool, which allows you to deliver full-strength acid to a stain at the bottom of a body of water. The disc portion attaches to the telepole for placement over a stained area. A small plastic hose runs from the disc to a bottle of muriatic acid on the deck. You start a siphon and drain acid into the disc, where it is kept in direct contact with the stain. It is time-consuming and not always necessary.
Water Testing Kits
Test kits and Thermometers are important part of cleaning and maintenance. Using your test kit, perform the necessary test to make chemical adjustments in the water. Pool and Spa owners must still conduct home tests of their pool or spa water at least once a week.
A thermometer is needed to check heater performance, spa temperatures, and other questions or concern about pool or spa water.
Read More..
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Swimming Laps At Home
Swimming, as we all know, is one of the best exercises you can do for your body. Swimming laps provides you with a great cardiovascular workout, and helps to keep your muscles toned. Swimming works every muscle in your body, which can also help you to burn calories. For many people throughout the United States, swimming is simply the best way to stay in shape and have fun doing it.
Although swimming is a lot of fun and a great way to exercise, it can be quite a chore going down to the local pool. The hours will vary from pool to pool, meaning that there are only certain times of the day and the week that you can go. To make matters worse, the lanes are normally crowded, making it hard to get a proper workout. Crowded lanes can make swimming a chore, especially if there are a lot of people around who are doing nothing but standing in the water.
If you like swimming laps but hate going to your local pool, you should look into getting a lap pool for your home. Lap pools are a great addition to your home, with the only difference in a lap pool and residential pool being the size and shape. Instead of the traditional kidney shape that home pools are known for, lap pools are long and narrow, giving you plenty of room to swim laps.
With the shape being long and narrow, you can easily keep track of just how many laps you have swam. Lap pools are normally just a few feet deep, meaning that divers shouldn’t invest in them. They are intended for those who love to swim laps, lacking toys such as diving boards and slides, as the water isn’t deep enough. Even though they are intended for hardcore lap swimmers, they are still ideal to jump in on a hot day and just cool off.
Lap pools are below ground pools, as you may already know. They require a lot of digging for installation, and can cost quite a few bucks as well. The prices will vary from area to area, although most top out around $30,000. This is very expensive to say the least, although if you swim every day, you can easily make your money back if you count how much you spend going to the local pool.
If you simply don’t have the money but want to swim laps at home, you should look into a swim spa. These spas resemble a hot tub of sorts, although you won’t have to dig up any of your yard to install them. They work almost like a treadmill, using an adjustable current that pushes you back, so you keep swimming in virtually the same place. You can get quite a bit of exercise using a swim spa, and it doesn’t take up a lot of room either.
Swim spas may be cheaper than lap pools, although they aren’t cheaper than traditional below ground pools. They are still relatively new, and can be somewhat hard to find. More and more pool companies are including them though, so it may be just a matter of time before they come to your area. You should contact your local company if you are interested, as they can be nearly impossible to maintain yourself.
With a lap pool or swim spa, you can swim as many laps as you like at home. These types of pools are ideal for swimmers everywhere, and they can keep you as healthy as you like. If you are interested in a lap pool or swim spa, simply contact your local pool company and get the ball rolling - you’ll be glad you did when you are swimming at home and not the local swimming hole. Read More..
Although swimming is a lot of fun and a great way to exercise, it can be quite a chore going down to the local pool. The hours will vary from pool to pool, meaning that there are only certain times of the day and the week that you can go. To make matters worse, the lanes are normally crowded, making it hard to get a proper workout. Crowded lanes can make swimming a chore, especially if there are a lot of people around who are doing nothing but standing in the water.
If you like swimming laps but hate going to your local pool, you should look into getting a lap pool for your home. Lap pools are a great addition to your home, with the only difference in a lap pool and residential pool being the size and shape. Instead of the traditional kidney shape that home pools are known for, lap pools are long and narrow, giving you plenty of room to swim laps.
With the shape being long and narrow, you can easily keep track of just how many laps you have swam. Lap pools are normally just a few feet deep, meaning that divers shouldn’t invest in them. They are intended for those who love to swim laps, lacking toys such as diving boards and slides, as the water isn’t deep enough. Even though they are intended for hardcore lap swimmers, they are still ideal to jump in on a hot day and just cool off.
Lap pools are below ground pools, as you may already know. They require a lot of digging for installation, and can cost quite a few bucks as well. The prices will vary from area to area, although most top out around $30,000. This is very expensive to say the least, although if you swim every day, you can easily make your money back if you count how much you spend going to the local pool.
If you simply don’t have the money but want to swim laps at home, you should look into a swim spa. These spas resemble a hot tub of sorts, although you won’t have to dig up any of your yard to install them. They work almost like a treadmill, using an adjustable current that pushes you back, so you keep swimming in virtually the same place. You can get quite a bit of exercise using a swim spa, and it doesn’t take up a lot of room either.
Swim spas may be cheaper than lap pools, although they aren’t cheaper than traditional below ground pools. They are still relatively new, and can be somewhat hard to find. More and more pool companies are including them though, so it may be just a matter of time before they come to your area. You should contact your local company if you are interested, as they can be nearly impossible to maintain yourself.
With a lap pool or swim spa, you can swim as many laps as you like at home. These types of pools are ideal for swimmers everywhere, and they can keep you as healthy as you like. If you are interested in a lap pool or swim spa, simply contact your local pool company and get the ball rolling - you’ll be glad you did when you are swimming at home and not the local swimming hole. Read More..
Swimming Pool Supplies and Accessories
Swimming Pool Equipment and Supplies. Large selection of pool covers, pool cleaners, pool heaters, pool pumps, pool filters, pool chemicals, and other pool equipment to help supply your above ground or in ground swimming pool needs. We also offer pool floats, toys, fountains and a variety of other pool accessories as well as maintenance supplies and equipment.
PoolParty Swimming Pool Patio Furniture
Commercial and Residential Swimming Pool Signs
Pelican Pool Caddy
Heater and Diving Board Covers 
Outdoor Solar Shower
Pool Organizer with Solar Light
Pool Sentry Automatic Water Leveler
Skamper-Ramp
Fattowels
In Ground Winter Pool Cover Accessories
Outdoor Rechargeable Fan with Radio 
Pool Lights 
Outdoor Clocks and Thermometers 
S. R. Smith Diving Boards - In Ground 
Pool Fountains
Economical Pool Filter Time Clock
Pool Maintenance Equipment 
Pool Paint and Deck Coatings 
Pool Alarms
Read More..
Swimming Pool Covers
Winter Swimming Pool Covers, Solar Pool Covers, Safety Pool Covers
Swimming Pool Covers offer a variety of benefits -- What would you like to achieve with your swimming pool cover?
- Retain heat in the pool, lowering expenses and extending the swimming season?
- Reduce the amount of chemicals required?
- Maintain cleaner water by keeping out leaves, dirt, and other debris?
- Prevent accidents and keep out unwanted visitors?
- Protect the pool from harsh winter elements?
Whatever your objectives, you will find a large selection of all types of Swimming Pool Covers here. We have Winter Pool Covers for both above ground and in-ground swimming pools, Solar Pool Covers that help keep in the heat at night and warm the pool during the day, and Safety Pool Covers - mesh and solid - that keep the pool securely covered to minimize the risks of accidents.
Swimming Pool Covers are available in multiple styles and price ranges. See more details below so that you can select the best pool cover for your needs.
 The American Society for Testing and Materials [ASTM] F1346-91 (1996) standard requires that a pool cover hold a minimum of 485 pounds per five square feet to qualify as a safety pool cover. These safety pool covers usually come in two varieties: Mesh & Solid. Both types of safety covers are anchored to a deck with straps that pull the cover taut over the pool; the straps usually attach to stainless steel springs and are anchored to recessed brackets in a deck surface. |
 A Solar Pool Cover is the least expensive kind of swimming pool cover. They are also called solar blankets. Solar Pool Covers or Blankets resemble giant sheets of bubble wrap. The bubbles trap heat from the sun and transmit the heat to the pool, keeping the water temperature warm and inviting. The solar cover also helps to trap the heat of the water and prevents its escape into the cool night time air. |
 Why not cover your pool for the winter rather than having to do all that messy cleaning in the Spring? A winter pool cover will prevent leaves, dirt, and debris from entering your pool this Winter. With a winter pool cover, you will avoid that inconvenient spring clean-up caused by rain, snow, ice, and algae which can easily form in an uncovered pool. The scrim is the weave tightness in the underlying thread construction. The higher the scrim number, the better the quality of the winter pool cover. |
 Winter Swimming Pool Covers are a real convenience! Don't delay in insulating and protecting your swimming pool from debris and dirt. Installing a swimming pool winter cover will put your mind at ease that your pool will be free of all those nasty leaves. Winter pool covers can prevent squirrels, pets, and other small animals from falling in your pool when they try to take a drink of water. We offer a wide variety of quality swimming pool winter covers to fit your budget.
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 Our exclusive mesh cover makes spring clean up a snap. The secret to Rugged Mesh is the lace coating that holds the mesh together insuring that no gaps or holes develop, like in traditional mesh covers. Because the integrity of the mesh holds together, only rainwater and very fine silt can pass through. The result is a cleaner pool next spring, and no heavy water to lift off. |
 Our rugged mesh cover makes spring clean-up a snap. The secret to this unique cover is the tightly woven scrim that holds together and prevents any gaps or holes from developing. Rugged mesh allows only rain water and very fine silt to pass through. Since the cover is made of lightweight mesh, it can be easily lifted off in the spring. No heavy water to remove or time consuming cover pumping. Simply remove rugged mesh, vacuum up the fine silt, and open your pool. With the Rugged Mesh Winter Cover, the result is a cleaner pool next spring. |
 Tired of removing those heavy, smelly, decaying leaves from your pool cover each spring? A Leaf Net is the answer! Simply lay the Leaf Net on top of your winter pool cover before the leaves fall, and remove it before the hard freeze hits. The Leaf Net's fine mesh traps the leaves and removes them from your pool so spring clean up is a snap. This cover is made from durable polyethylene and carries a 5-Year Warranty! If you live in an area with a lot of leaves, then you need to try a Leaf Net! |
Read More..
Winterizing Your Swimming Pool
Once fall ends and winter begins to rear it’s ugly head, it will be time to shut your pool down. When shutting your pool down, the first step will be the water. You should begin by checking your pH level, and making sure that it is around 7.5. If it isn’t, simply add some dry acid. You should also check your chlorine as well, and use a winterizing product to make sure that your pool will be protected from algae during the few months that you won’t be swimming.
During the winter months, you should run your pump for around 6 hours a day, to ensure that the algae doesn’t settle in. You should also go ahead and check for any types of leaks as well, then switch your skimmer valve off and let the water drain to around 6 inches below the skimmer’s bottom. This way, you’ll have the preferred amount of water in your pool.
If you are using a summer cover, take it down and give it a good cleaning using fresh water and a pressure washer if you have access to one. Once you have cleaned the cover really good, go ahead and put it in your building or garage and break out your winter cover. When you put your winter cover on the pool, make sure that you have plenty of tension on the cover, to prevent anything from getting under it.
Although you may have put the cover on tight, you should still check it every couple of days to make sure that it is still tight. Remind your family and friends that you have closed your pool down for the winter, and that they shouldn’t be around it. Pool covers are designed to protect your pool and the water - they aren’t made for safety. Never, under any circumstances should you let a pet or a person on the cover.
Once you have finished with the cover, it is time for the equipment. You’ll need to drain the water from your pump, heater, and your filter. Each one should have a drain plug located somewhere near the bottom, which makes it easy to drain the water out. You should never forget to do this, as the water can freeze inside of your equipment during the cold months of winter and result in permanent damage of your equipment.
Once you have finished getting your swimming pool ready for winter, you can relax knowing that your pool is protected. Keeping a check on it every few days will ensure that nothing has happened. Once summer starts to arrive again, you can get your pool ready for summer and prepare to open it up again. If you’ve done things right - your pool will be ready to go in no time at all. Read More..
During the winter months, you should run your pump for around 6 hours a day, to ensure that the algae doesn’t settle in. You should also go ahead and check for any types of leaks as well, then switch your skimmer valve off and let the water drain to around 6 inches below the skimmer’s bottom. This way, you’ll have the preferred amount of water in your pool.
If you are using a summer cover, take it down and give it a good cleaning using fresh water and a pressure washer if you have access to one. Once you have cleaned the cover really good, go ahead and put it in your building or garage and break out your winter cover. When you put your winter cover on the pool, make sure that you have plenty of tension on the cover, to prevent anything from getting under it.
Although you may have put the cover on tight, you should still check it every couple of days to make sure that it is still tight. Remind your family and friends that you have closed your pool down for the winter, and that they shouldn’t be around it. Pool covers are designed to protect your pool and the water - they aren’t made for safety. Never, under any circumstances should you let a pet or a person on the cover.
Once you have finished with the cover, it is time for the equipment. You’ll need to drain the water from your pump, heater, and your filter. Each one should have a drain plug located somewhere near the bottom, which makes it easy to drain the water out. You should never forget to do this, as the water can freeze inside of your equipment during the cold months of winter and result in permanent damage of your equipment.
Once you have finished getting your swimming pool ready for winter, you can relax knowing that your pool is protected. Keeping a check on it every few days will ensure that nothing has happened. Once summer starts to arrive again, you can get your pool ready for summer and prepare to open it up again. If you’ve done things right - your pool will be ready to go in no time at all. Read More..
What You Need For Your Pool
When summer arrives, it’s time to get cool and enjoy the fun of summer. Like other homeowners, you may be thinking a swimming pool. Pools are great to have, although they require a lot of work and maintenance - whether you have an in ground or above ground swimming pool. Before you rush out and buy your pool for summer, there are a few things you should know.
When you buy your pool, your dealer or salesman will more than likely go over what else you need with your pool. In order to operate your pool, there are several things that you simply must have to get started.
The first thing you’ll need is a filtration system. When you get your filtration system, make sure that your filtration system is capable of handling your pool capacity. A filtration system is very important, as it helps to remove small partials and bacteria from building up in your water.
A vacuum is also important. You should make sure however, that you purchase a vacuum that is specific for your swimming pool. There are several types of vacuums available, and you want to make sure that you don’t purchase the wrong one. Vacuums are essential to operating your pool, as they help to clean out debris settled on the bottom.
You should also make sure that you get a skimmer basket or strainer as well, as it helps with your vacuum and filtration system. Skimmer baskets or strainers will keep your pool clean by catching debris and bugs that manage to get into your pool. You should use them whenever you use your pool, as they will do a majority of the cleaning for you.
To protect your pool, you’ll also need a swimming pool cover. Covers are available in a few different types, and several different sizes. A cover will protect your pool from debris and elements, as well as preventing those you love from drowning. You should always make sure that you buy a strong and sturdy cover, and be sure to use it to cover your pool when you aren’t swimming.
A maintenance chart is also important. With a maintenance chart, you can keep track of what you have done to your pool, the level of chemicals that you are using, and the readings of the tests that you have performed on your water. Maintenance charts are easily overlooked by pool owners, although they are essential to knowing what you have done to your pool.
Another important items you’ll need are chemicals. They play a very important role in balancing your water, and helping swimmers stay healthy. There are several different types of chemicals available, including chlorine, clarifier, and pH chemicals. All types of chemicals are very important, and need to be used to keep your water levels healthy. You can check your water and pH levels on a daily basis, as you do your regular pool maintenance.
In order to perform tests on your pool, you’ll need a testing kit. They come in either strip or bottle form, and allow you to test and understand the different chemical levels in your water. If you are planning to keep your pool healthy, you’ll need to do tests. They are easy to do, and won’t take you but a few minutes of your time.
To operate your pool and perform the proper maintenance, you’ll need to have the above equipment and supplies. Although you can buy pool accessories such as toys and furniture, they aren’t required to use your swimming pool. You don’t need to have any accessories - although you do need everything listed above.
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When you buy your pool, your dealer or salesman will more than likely go over what else you need with your pool. In order to operate your pool, there are several things that you simply must have to get started.
The first thing you’ll need is a filtration system. When you get your filtration system, make sure that your filtration system is capable of handling your pool capacity. A filtration system is very important, as it helps to remove small partials and bacteria from building up in your water.
A vacuum is also important. You should make sure however, that you purchase a vacuum that is specific for your swimming pool. There are several types of vacuums available, and you want to make sure that you don’t purchase the wrong one. Vacuums are essential to operating your pool, as they help to clean out debris settled on the bottom.
You should also make sure that you get a skimmer basket or strainer as well, as it helps with your vacuum and filtration system. Skimmer baskets or strainers will keep your pool clean by catching debris and bugs that manage to get into your pool. You should use them whenever you use your pool, as they will do a majority of the cleaning for you.
To protect your pool, you’ll also need a swimming pool cover. Covers are available in a few different types, and several different sizes. A cover will protect your pool from debris and elements, as well as preventing those you love from drowning. You should always make sure that you buy a strong and sturdy cover, and be sure to use it to cover your pool when you aren’t swimming.
A maintenance chart is also important. With a maintenance chart, you can keep track of what you have done to your pool, the level of chemicals that you are using, and the readings of the tests that you have performed on your water. Maintenance charts are easily overlooked by pool owners, although they are essential to knowing what you have done to your pool.
Another important items you’ll need are chemicals. They play a very important role in balancing your water, and helping swimmers stay healthy. There are several different types of chemicals available, including chlorine, clarifier, and pH chemicals. All types of chemicals are very important, and need to be used to keep your water levels healthy. You can check your water and pH levels on a daily basis, as you do your regular pool maintenance.
In order to perform tests on your pool, you’ll need a testing kit. They come in either strip or bottle form, and allow you to test and understand the different chemical levels in your water. If you are planning to keep your pool healthy, you’ll need to do tests. They are easy to do, and won’t take you but a few minutes of your time.
To operate your pool and perform the proper maintenance, you’ll need to have the above equipment and supplies. Although you can buy pool accessories such as toys and furniture, they aren’t required to use your swimming pool. You don’t need to have any accessories - although you do need everything listed above.
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The Swimming Pool
In the tropical areas of the world, there are several breathtaking areas that you could swim in, from lakes to amazing coastal beaches. Areas such as Hawaii, the Bahamas, California, and Puerto Rico have several beaches for you to enjoy. For those of us living in the middle of the United States, take a swim and enjoying the water can be a bit more challenging.
While you can choose to go to a local swimming pool, the summer months can often leave the local pool crowded. Crowded pools can be very frustrating indeed, especially if you are looking to swim laps. If it’s a really hot summer day, the pool can be so crowded that it can be extremely hard to enjoy a nice dip in the water.
To enjoy the water, you can always invest in a swimming pool for your home. Swimming pools can add value to your home, and give you the comfort of enjoying the water anytime you take a notion. If you are craving that exotic feel, you can always add plenty of accessories to your pool, such as shade trees, lemonade, and toys. There are hundreds of accessories and furniture out there, many of which can add virtually any look you desire to your swimming pool.
During the hottest days of summer, nothing makes you relax more than a pool. During the afternoon or evening, swimming can help to make it a little cooler. By owning a swimming pool, you can go swimming anytime you please. You can even take a swim at night as well, providing you have adequate lighting outside near your swimming pool.
If you are a professional swimmer however, a swimming pool on your property just might not be enough. Sport swimming has a lot of strict requirements, including lap swimming. A traditional swimming pool in your backyard may not be the best way to swim laps. You can always get a lap pool or swim spa, although they cost a lot more money than most people are willing to invest.
When you look for your swimming pool, you’ll have to decide between an in ground pool or an above ground pool. There are several choices available to you, although most will depend greatly on your budget. If you have the money to spare, you should go with an in ground pool. These swimming pools provide the most space, and give you plenty of options to enjoy swimming.
You can also look into a fiberglass swimming pool as well. Swimming pools that are made from fiberglass are very durable, and offer you a pleasant solution to hot days. These pools are very flexible, as they can easily be lowered into a hole already in the ground. There is little to no construction involved, as most fiberglass pools are already constructed. They are also the cheapest solution to in ground pools as well. Fiberglass pools also eliminate the need for acid washing and liner replacements, as they don’t require any type of treatments.
With several options available to you, it’s easier than ever these days to have your very own swimming pool. If you are interested in a swimming pool you can look for the best prices online, or contact your local swimming pool dealer. Most pools are very affordable, and you can get some great deals if you buy at the right time. You’ll make a lot of friends with your new swimming pool - especially on hot days when the local pool is crowded.
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While you can choose to go to a local swimming pool, the summer months can often leave the local pool crowded. Crowded pools can be very frustrating indeed, especially if you are looking to swim laps. If it’s a really hot summer day, the pool can be so crowded that it can be extremely hard to enjoy a nice dip in the water.
To enjoy the water, you can always invest in a swimming pool for your home. Swimming pools can add value to your home, and give you the comfort of enjoying the water anytime you take a notion. If you are craving that exotic feel, you can always add plenty of accessories to your pool, such as shade trees, lemonade, and toys. There are hundreds of accessories and furniture out there, many of which can add virtually any look you desire to your swimming pool.
During the hottest days of summer, nothing makes you relax more than a pool. During the afternoon or evening, swimming can help to make it a little cooler. By owning a swimming pool, you can go swimming anytime you please. You can even take a swim at night as well, providing you have adequate lighting outside near your swimming pool.
If you are a professional swimmer however, a swimming pool on your property just might not be enough. Sport swimming has a lot of strict requirements, including lap swimming. A traditional swimming pool in your backyard may not be the best way to swim laps. You can always get a lap pool or swim spa, although they cost a lot more money than most people are willing to invest.
When you look for your swimming pool, you’ll have to decide between an in ground pool or an above ground pool. There are several choices available to you, although most will depend greatly on your budget. If you have the money to spare, you should go with an in ground pool. These swimming pools provide the most space, and give you plenty of options to enjoy swimming.
You can also look into a fiberglass swimming pool as well. Swimming pools that are made from fiberglass are very durable, and offer you a pleasant solution to hot days. These pools are very flexible, as they can easily be lowered into a hole already in the ground. There is little to no construction involved, as most fiberglass pools are already constructed. They are also the cheapest solution to in ground pools as well. Fiberglass pools also eliminate the need for acid washing and liner replacements, as they don’t require any type of treatments.
With several options available to you, it’s easier than ever these days to have your very own swimming pool. If you are interested in a swimming pool you can look for the best prices online, or contact your local swimming pool dealer. Most pools are very affordable, and you can get some great deals if you buy at the right time. You’ll make a lot of friends with your new swimming pool - especially on hot days when the local pool is crowded.
Read More..
Things To Know About Swimming Pools
In the warmer areas of North America, swimming pools are very popular. They provide great fun and exercise, along with plenty of entertainment for your entire family. When you decide to buy a swimming pool, you’ll have two options to choose from - in ground pools or above ground pools. Both types are different, in appearance and what they have to offer you.
Above ground swimming pools are the most affordable, as the prices range from $500.00 - $7,000.00. Above ground pools are also easier to install, and even portable. Normally, you can have this type of pool installed and ready for use in a few hours. You can self install them if you wish, which will save you money. If you have the money to spare, you can always have a professional install it to ensure that everything is done correctly.
Pools that are in the ground cost a lot more. The prices for an in ground swimming pool can reach as high as $50,000.00, depending on the size of the pool, the design, and the materials that are used. The most expensive type of in ground pool is concrete, which is custom poured to virtually any shape you can imagine.
You can also get a heater to help control the temperature of the water in the pool. You can get a standard type of heater or solar heater. If you have a solar heater in mind, you should make sure that your pool has been placed in a location where it will receive a lot of sun. If you use a solar powered heater but don’t place your pool in the sun, it’ll prove to be a waste of money.
To protect yourself in the long run, you should always refer to the zoning laws for your area regarding a swimming pool or a deck. This way, you’ll know what the laws are regarding your swimming pool. Once you know what the laws and regulations are, you should always do anything you can to ensure that you meet the requirements and that your pool is within the guidelines.
Even though heat and hot summer days are the main reasons why most want a pool, there are other benefits as well. Swimming is one of the best exercises you can do for your body, so a pool will offer you a lot of health benefits. Keep in mind that unless you are using a heater to heat your pool, you’ll only be able to use it during the summer. If you choose to use a heater however, you can extend summer and get a lot more enjoyment from your swimming pool.
Once you have bought your pool and have everything going, it can cost you quite a bit to keep everything going. Pools need to be maintained, which can tend to be expensive. You can do this yourself or hire a professional, although either way will cost money. The equipment you’ll need and the chemicals are expensive, and you should know that up front before you make your purchase.
All in all, swimming pools are great for your property. Whether it’s an above ground swimming pool or in ground pool, your family will love it. You’ll have somewhere to go on hot days together, to relax and enjoy the cool water. Once you have a swimming pool you won’t have to use the local pool anymore - and you won’t have to deal with the crowds or long lines anymore. Read More..
Above ground swimming pools are the most affordable, as the prices range from $500.00 - $7,000.00. Above ground pools are also easier to install, and even portable. Normally, you can have this type of pool installed and ready for use in a few hours. You can self install them if you wish, which will save you money. If you have the money to spare, you can always have a professional install it to ensure that everything is done correctly.
Pools that are in the ground cost a lot more. The prices for an in ground swimming pool can reach as high as $50,000.00, depending on the size of the pool, the design, and the materials that are used. The most expensive type of in ground pool is concrete, which is custom poured to virtually any shape you can imagine.
You can also get a heater to help control the temperature of the water in the pool. You can get a standard type of heater or solar heater. If you have a solar heater in mind, you should make sure that your pool has been placed in a location where it will receive a lot of sun. If you use a solar powered heater but don’t place your pool in the sun, it’ll prove to be a waste of money.
To protect yourself in the long run, you should always refer to the zoning laws for your area regarding a swimming pool or a deck. This way, you’ll know what the laws are regarding your swimming pool. Once you know what the laws and regulations are, you should always do anything you can to ensure that you meet the requirements and that your pool is within the guidelines.
Even though heat and hot summer days are the main reasons why most want a pool, there are other benefits as well. Swimming is one of the best exercises you can do for your body, so a pool will offer you a lot of health benefits. Keep in mind that unless you are using a heater to heat your pool, you’ll only be able to use it during the summer. If you choose to use a heater however, you can extend summer and get a lot more enjoyment from your swimming pool.
Once you have bought your pool and have everything going, it can cost you quite a bit to keep everything going. Pools need to be maintained, which can tend to be expensive. You can do this yourself or hire a professional, although either way will cost money. The equipment you’ll need and the chemicals are expensive, and you should know that up front before you make your purchase.
All in all, swimming pools are great for your property. Whether it’s an above ground swimming pool or in ground pool, your family will love it. You’ll have somewhere to go on hot days together, to relax and enjoy the cool water. Once you have a swimming pool you won’t have to use the local pool anymore - and you won’t have to deal with the crowds or long lines anymore. Read More..
Types Of Swimming Pools
Swimming pools provide a great way to relax, exercise, and enjoy yourself on a hot summer day, coming in a variety of different shapes and sizes. To efficiently and safely operate a swimming pool, you’ll need to have a pump, basin, water filter, chemical feeder, return, drains, and the proper plumbing to transport your water.
Depending on the basin structure, there are various types of pools available for you to choose from. Above ground swimming pools are the easiest to build and the cheapest to buy, as they come with pre-made kits. Fiberglass pools are built using molded fiberglass, reinforced plastic. Fiberglass pools are in ground, and can provide you years and years of family fun and swimming excitement.
Vinyl lined swimming pools are the cheapest types of in ground designs you can get, although you’ll need to have the liner replaced every 10 years or so. Concrete is another popular design for in ground pools, as they provide plenty of room and no need to have the liner replaced.
There are also the public swimming pools, which include heated indoor pools, children’s pools, and outdoor pools. Public swimming pools are well known for their slides and other features such as waterfalls and splash pads. Public pools are great for hot days, although most prefer to get their own pool due to public pools being so crowded on a frequent basis.
Swim spas, or exercise pools are also popular, known for their resistance swimming. Swimming is one of the best exercises that you can do for your body, as it works just about every muscle in your body. There are several exercises that you can do in an exercise pool, such as jogging, water toning, and water yoga.
No matter what type of swimming pool it may be, it’s very important that the chemicals stay balanced. If the balance of the chemicals is off, it can damage the water, which can really irritate your skin and your eyes. Therefore, swimming pools need to be disinfected on a daily basis and treated with various chemicals. To maintain the proper health of the skin, purifying the water is very important.
If you are looking to add a swimming pool to your property, there are several for you to choose from. Swimming pools can help add property value to your home, which is always a good thing. When you add a swimming pool to your property, you should always think in terms of safety, and ensure that your pool is protected against young children. If you take care of your pool and always make sure that things are clean and safe, your pool will provide you with plenty of fun for years and years to come. Read More..
Depending on the basin structure, there are various types of pools available for you to choose from. Above ground swimming pools are the easiest to build and the cheapest to buy, as they come with pre-made kits. Fiberglass pools are built using molded fiberglass, reinforced plastic. Fiberglass pools are in ground, and can provide you years and years of family fun and swimming excitement.
Vinyl lined swimming pools are the cheapest types of in ground designs you can get, although you’ll need to have the liner replaced every 10 years or so. Concrete is another popular design for in ground pools, as they provide plenty of room and no need to have the liner replaced.
There are also the public swimming pools, which include heated indoor pools, children’s pools, and outdoor pools. Public swimming pools are well known for their slides and other features such as waterfalls and splash pads. Public pools are great for hot days, although most prefer to get their own pool due to public pools being so crowded on a frequent basis.
Swim spas, or exercise pools are also popular, known for their resistance swimming. Swimming is one of the best exercises that you can do for your body, as it works just about every muscle in your body. There are several exercises that you can do in an exercise pool, such as jogging, water toning, and water yoga.
No matter what type of swimming pool it may be, it’s very important that the chemicals stay balanced. If the balance of the chemicals is off, it can damage the water, which can really irritate your skin and your eyes. Therefore, swimming pools need to be disinfected on a daily basis and treated with various chemicals. To maintain the proper health of the skin, purifying the water is very important.
If you are looking to add a swimming pool to your property, there are several for you to choose from. Swimming pools can help add property value to your home, which is always a good thing. When you add a swimming pool to your property, you should always think in terms of safety, and ensure that your pool is protected against young children. If you take care of your pool and always make sure that things are clean and safe, your pool will provide you with plenty of fun for years and years to come. Read More..
Types Of Swimming Pool Covers
All across the United States, thousand and thousands of people own swimming pools. A swimming pool can provide a lot of fun and excitement, although it can also be dangerous. As many of us already know, it only takes a few seconds for a child to drown. To stop this from happening, you should use a pool cover to cover your swimming pool.
Along with protecting your swimming pool, covers have other uses as well. You can get solar powered pool covers, which will help to keep your water warm from the heat of the sun and protect your pool at the same time. For those looking for the best in protection, there are hard top swimming pool covers out there that are very sturdy and can keep just about anything out of your pool.
If you live in a warm climate area, you may want to get a basic plastic cover for your pool, which will keep it clean and protected. These covers will keep dust, dirt, and leaves out of your pool when you aren’t using it. Depending on where you live and what needs you have, the cover you need will vary.
Covers for your swimming pool come in several different choices as well, such as net, mesh, vinyl, and so on. Mesh pool covers are very popular, as they offer a tight fitting barrier which helps to keep your pool clean and free of debris, reduce maintenance, reduce evaporation, and keep your pool from unauthorized access.
Vinyl pool covers on the other hand, provide an amazing source of security. These pool covers operate via key, and help to keep debris out of your pool. They are also great for insulating and retaining heat, along with reducing any loss of chemicals. Vinyl is a very popular type of pool cover, being used by hundreds of thousands of pool owners.
No matter what type of pool cover you select, you can rest assured that it will do a lot in protecting your swimming pool. They don’t cost you a lot of money, yet they can go a long way in helping to prevent a child from accidental drowning. Depending on the type of swimming pool you have, the type of covers you have to choose from will vary.
From above ground pools to in ground pools, a swimming pool cover is something that you absolutely must have. There are many different types available, designed to fit all swimming pools. Before you buy a swimming pool cover you should first look at the package and make sure that it will work with your swimming pool. Some types of swimming pool covers may not work with your swimming pool - which makes it all the more important to double check.
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Along with protecting your swimming pool, covers have other uses as well. You can get solar powered pool covers, which will help to keep your water warm from the heat of the sun and protect your pool at the same time. For those looking for the best in protection, there are hard top swimming pool covers out there that are very sturdy and can keep just about anything out of your pool.
If you live in a warm climate area, you may want to get a basic plastic cover for your pool, which will keep it clean and protected. These covers will keep dust, dirt, and leaves out of your pool when you aren’t using it. Depending on where you live and what needs you have, the cover you need will vary.
Covers for your swimming pool come in several different choices as well, such as net, mesh, vinyl, and so on. Mesh pool covers are very popular, as they offer a tight fitting barrier which helps to keep your pool clean and free of debris, reduce maintenance, reduce evaporation, and keep your pool from unauthorized access.
Vinyl pool covers on the other hand, provide an amazing source of security. These pool covers operate via key, and help to keep debris out of your pool. They are also great for insulating and retaining heat, along with reducing any loss of chemicals. Vinyl is a very popular type of pool cover, being used by hundreds of thousands of pool owners.
No matter what type of pool cover you select, you can rest assured that it will do a lot in protecting your swimming pool. They don’t cost you a lot of money, yet they can go a long way in helping to prevent a child from accidental drowning. Depending on the type of swimming pool you have, the type of covers you have to choose from will vary.
From above ground pools to in ground pools, a swimming pool cover is something that you absolutely must have. There are many different types available, designed to fit all swimming pools. Before you buy a swimming pool cover you should first look at the package and make sure that it will work with your swimming pool. Some types of swimming pool covers may not work with your swimming pool - which makes it all the more important to double check.
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Tips For Swimming Pool Covers
Covers for your swimming pool are available in an array of different colors, sizes, shapes, and purposes. To heat your pool and keep it protected at the same time, you can get a solar cover. If safety is your biggest concern, you can get safety covers that cover your pool and keep people and animals out of it as well. For both above ground pools and in ground pools, you can always find a cover to keep your pool protected from people, animals, and even the harsh weather of winter.
When looking for a cover for your swimming pool, there are a few things that you should keep in mind. The first thing to do, is to look for a cover that is strong and sturdy. The cover you select should keep your pool clean from debris, but also provide safety for people who accidentally step out on to it. The cover should be strong enough to prevent people from drowning, and also sturdy enough to keep debris and other things from getting access to the water.
You’ll also need to make sure that the cover you select is acceptable with both local and state regulations. Even though the laws and regulations vary, there are some areas that require a certain type or size cover. If you check with local police force, they should be able to tell you whether or not the cover you are using is acceptable with the regulations provided for your area. You should always check before you buy a cover, in the event that what you are interested in isn’t accepted.
Before you buy your cover, you should always ensure that it comes with a warranty. Most swimming pool covers include a warranty of 2 years or more. The cover that you buy should also include a warranty that covers all types of defects. You don’t want to buy a cover that isn’t warrantied, as you only want to buy a cover for your pool that you can trust - from a company that you know stands behind what they sell.
Before buying, you also want to be sure that your cover offers a good overlap length, by buying a size that is a bit larger than the dimensions of your pool. Doing so will give you more than enough room to anchor your cover down to the swimming pool and not have to worry about not having enough pool cover. You can stretch your swimming pool cover out over your pool, and still have plenty of room left to make sure that it fits tight.
When you buy the cover for your swimming pool, always make sure that it includes everything you need to begin using it immediately. Depending on the type you select, you will get either straps or anchors. You should always make sure that there was no spillage with the cover, and everything you need is inside. The last thing you want is to buy a swimming pool cover that is missing vital components that you need to use the cover.
Swimming pool covers are essential to keeping your pool safe and clean, and should always be used if you own a swimming pool. If you buy a cover that is good quality and good material, it should last you for several years. You can find swimming pool covers at your local supply store, or in any department store that sells pool gear. Always make sure that you read the instructions and other related material before you buy, to make sure that the cover you are interested in will work with your swimming pool.
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When looking for a cover for your swimming pool, there are a few things that you should keep in mind. The first thing to do, is to look for a cover that is strong and sturdy. The cover you select should keep your pool clean from debris, but also provide safety for people who accidentally step out on to it. The cover should be strong enough to prevent people from drowning, and also sturdy enough to keep debris and other things from getting access to the water.
You’ll also need to make sure that the cover you select is acceptable with both local and state regulations. Even though the laws and regulations vary, there are some areas that require a certain type or size cover. If you check with local police force, they should be able to tell you whether or not the cover you are using is acceptable with the regulations provided for your area. You should always check before you buy a cover, in the event that what you are interested in isn’t accepted.
Before you buy your cover, you should always ensure that it comes with a warranty. Most swimming pool covers include a warranty of 2 years or more. The cover that you buy should also include a warranty that covers all types of defects. You don’t want to buy a cover that isn’t warrantied, as you only want to buy a cover for your pool that you can trust - from a company that you know stands behind what they sell.
Before buying, you also want to be sure that your cover offers a good overlap length, by buying a size that is a bit larger than the dimensions of your pool. Doing so will give you more than enough room to anchor your cover down to the swimming pool and not have to worry about not having enough pool cover. You can stretch your swimming pool cover out over your pool, and still have plenty of room left to make sure that it fits tight.
When you buy the cover for your swimming pool, always make sure that it includes everything you need to begin using it immediately. Depending on the type you select, you will get either straps or anchors. You should always make sure that there was no spillage with the cover, and everything you need is inside. The last thing you want is to buy a swimming pool cover that is missing vital components that you need to use the cover.
Swimming pool covers are essential to keeping your pool safe and clean, and should always be used if you own a swimming pool. If you buy a cover that is good quality and good material, it should last you for several years. You can find swimming pool covers at your local supply store, or in any department store that sells pool gear. Always make sure that you read the instructions and other related material before you buy, to make sure that the cover you are interested in will work with your swimming pool.
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Everything you need to know about your pool
A swimming pool, swimming bath, wading pool, or simply a pool, is an artificially enclosed body of water intended for swimming or water-based recreation. There are many standard sizes; the largest and deepest is the Olympic size. A pool can be built either above or in the ground, and from materials such as metal, plastic, fiberglass or concrete. Pools that may be used by many people or by the general public are called public, while pools used exclusively by a few people or in a home are called private. Many health clubs, fitness centers and private clubs have public pools used mostly for exercise. Many hotels and massage parlors have public pools for relaxation. Hot tubs and spas are pools with hot water, used for relaxation or therapy, and are common in homes, hotels, clubs and massage parlors. Swimming pools are also used for diving, other sports, and training of lifeguards and astronauts.
Pools must be sanitized to prevent growth and spread of bacteria, viruses, algae and insect larvae that can cause disease. This is done by using filters and chemical disinfectants such as chlorine, bromine or mineral sanitizers.
The "great bath" at the site of Mohenjo-Daro was most likely dug during the 3rd millennium BC. This pool is 12 by 7 meters, is lined with bricks and was covered with a tar-based sealant.
Ancient Greeks and Romans built artificial pools for athletic training in the palaestras, for nautical games and for military exercises. Roman emperors had private swimming pools in which fish were also kept, hence one of the Latin words for a pool, piscina. The first heated swimming pool was built by Gaius Maecenas of Rome in the first century BC. Gaius Maecenas was a rich Roman lord and considered one of the first patrons of arts.
Ancient Sinhalese built pairs of pools called "Kuttam Pokuna" in the kingdom of Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka in 4th century BC. Those were decorated with flights of steps, punkalas or pots of abundance and scroll design.
Swimming pools became popular in Britain in the mid 19th century. By 1837, six indoor pools with diving boards were built in London, England.[4] After the modern Olympic Games began in 1896 and included swimming races, the popularity of swimming pools began to spread (reference: Encyclopedia Britannica). In 1839, Oxford had its first major public indoor pool at Temple Cowley, and swimming began to take off. The Amateur Swimming Association was founded in 1869 in England, and the Oxford Swimming Club in 1909 with its home at Temple Cowley Pool. The presence of indoor baths in the cobbled area of Merton Street, London may have persuaded the less hardy of the aquatic brigade to join. So, bathers gradually became swimmers, and bathing pools swimming pools.
In the USA, the Racquet Club of Philadelphia clubhouse (1907) boasts one of the world's first modern above-ground swimming pools. The first swimming pool to go to sea on an ocean liner was installed on the White Star Line's Adriatic in 1907.
After World War I and the departure of "long John" style swimming costumes, interest in competitive swimming grew. Standards improved and training became essential.
Home swimming pools became popular in the USA after World War II and the publicity given to swimming sports by Hollywood films like Esther Williams Million Dollar Mermaid made a home pool a desirable status symbol. More than 50 years later, the home or residential swimming pool is ubiquitous and even the smallest world nations enjoy a thriving swimming pool industry (e.g. New Zealand pop. 4,116,900 [Source NZ Census 7 March 2006] - holds the record in pools per capita with 65,000 home swimming pools and 125,000 spa pools).
Swimming pool records
One of the largest swimming pools ever built was reputedly in Moscow after the Palace of Soviets remained uncompleted. The foundations were converted into an open air swimming pool after the process of de-Stalinisation. After the fall of communism, Christ the Saviour Cathedral was re-built (it had originally been on the site) between 1995 and 2000.
According to the Guinness World Records, the largest swimming pool in the world is San Alfonso del Mar Seawater pool in Algarrobo, Chile. It is 1,013 m (3,324 ft) long and has an area of 8 ha (20 acres). It was completed in December 2006.
The largest indoor wave pool in North America is at the West Edmonton Mall and the largest indoor pool is at the Neutral Buoyancy Lab in the Sonny Carter Training Facility at NASA JSC in Houston. The recreational diving center Nemo 33 near Brussels, Belgium is home to the world's deepest swimming pool. The pool has two large flat-bottomed areas at depth levels of 5 m (16 ft) and 10 m (32 ft), and a large circular pit descending to a depth of 33 m (108 ft).
The Fleishhacker Pool in San Francisco, California was the largest swimming pool in the United States. Opened on 23 April 1925, it measured 300 m by 45 m (1,000 ft by 150 ft) and was so large that the lifeguards required kayaks for patrol. It was closed in 1971 due to low patronage.
Dimensions
- Length
Most pools in the world are measured in metres, but in the United States pools are almost always measured in feet and yards. In the United Kingdom most pools are in metres, but older pools measured in yards still exist. In the US pools tend to either be 25 yards (SCY-short course yards), 25 metres (SCM-short course metres) or 50 metres (long course). US high schools and the NCAA conduct short course (25 yards) competition. There also exist many pools 33⅓ m long, so that 3 lengths = 100 m. This is sometimes jokingly referred to as "inter-course". This pool dimension is commonly used to accommodate water polo.
USA Swimming (USA-S) swims in both metric and non-metric pools. However, the international standard is metres, and world records are only recognized when swum in 50 m pools (or 25 m for short course). In general, the shorter the pool, the faster the time for the same distance, since the swimmer gains speed from pushing off the wall after each turn at the end of the pool.
- Width
Most European pools are between 10 m and 50 m wide.
- Depth
The depth of a swimming pool depends on the purpose of the pool, and whether it is open to the public or strictly for private use. If it is a private casual, relaxing pool, it may go from 1.0 m to 2.0 m (3 to 7 feet) deep. If it is a public pool designed for diving, it may slope from 3.0 to 5.0 m (10 to 16 feet) in the deep end. A children's play pool may be from 30 cm to 1.2 m (1 to 4 feet) deep. Most public pools have differing depths to accommodate different swimmer requirements. In many jurisdictions, it is a requirement to show the water depth with clearly marked depths affixed to the pool walls.
Types
Private pools
Private pools are usually smaller than public pools, on average 16' x 32' (4.8m x 9.6 m) to 20' x 40' (6m x 12 m) whereas public pools usually start at 80 0" (25.0m). Home pools can be permanently built-in, or be assembled above ground and disassembled after summer. Privately owned outdoor pools in backyards or gardens started to proliferate in the 1950s in regions with warm summer climates, particularly in the United States. In some warm-weather US locations, such as Florida and Arizona, home pools are so common that it is rare to find a new house being built without a pool being considered in the design.[citation needed]
Private pools are increasingly a feature of homes in greater latitudes. For example, in London many larger homes are now refurbished with indoor pools, usually in the basement or in a conservatory. In some European cities, including Munich, it is relatively common for people living in older properties to convert existing internal motorcar garages into indoor pool areas.[citation needed]
Construction methods for private pools vary greatly. The main types of in-ground pools are concrete, vinyl liner, and fiberglass. Above-ground pools (also called "on-ground pools") are usually cheaper to build. They are especially popular in places where ground freezing makes excavation difficult and threatens damage to the pool structure.
Inexpensive temporary PVC pools can be bought in supermarkets and taken down after summer. They are used mostly outdoors in yards, are typically shallow, and often their sides are inflated with air to stay rigid. When finished, the water and air can be let out and this type of pool can be folded up for convenient storage. They are regarded in the swimming pool industry as "splasher" pools intended for cooling off and amusing toddlers and children, not for swimming.
Some people use hot tubs and spas at home to soak their bodies in water for recreation and therapeutic reasons.
Many toys are available for children and other people to play with in pool water. They are often blown up with air so they are soft but still reasonably rugged, and can float in water.
Many countries now have strict pool fencing laws for private swimming pools, which require pool areas to be isolated so that unauthorized children younger than six years cannot enter. Many countries require a similar level of protection for the children residing in or visiting the house, although many pool owners prefer the visual aspect of the pool in close proximity to their living areas, and will not provide this level of protection. There is no general consensus between states or countries on the requirements to fence private swimming pools, and in many places they are not required at all, particularly in rural settings.
Public pools
Public pools are often found as part of a larger leisure centre or recreational complex. These centres often have more than one pool, such as an indoor heated pool, an outdoor saltwater or unheated chlorinated pool, a shallower children's pool, and a paddling pool for toddlers and infants. There may also be a sauna and one or more hot tubs or spa pools ("jacuzzis").
Public pools may belong to a hotel or holiday resort, as an amenity for the recreation of their guests. If a pool is in a separate building, the building is called a "natatorium". The building sometimes also has facilities for related activities, such as a diving tank. Outdoor pools are common in warmer climates. Larger pools sometimes have a diving board affixed at one edge above the water. Diving pools should be deep enough that divers are not injured.
Many public swimming pools are rectangles 25 m or 50 m long, but may be any size and shape desired. There are also elaborate pools with artificial waterfalls, fountains, splash pads, wave machines, varying depths of water, bridges, and island bars.
There are often lockers for clothing and other belongings. The lockers often require a coin to be inserted as deposit or payment. There are often showers ready for use - sometimes mandatory - before and/or after swimming.
Wading pools are shallow bodies of water intended for use by small children, usually in parks. Concrete wading pools come in many shapes, traditionally rectangle, square or circle. They are filled and drained daily due to lack of a filter system. Staff chlorinate the water to ensure health and safety standards.
Competition pools
Federation Internationale de la Natation (FINA, International Swimming Federation) sets widely recognized standards for competition pools: 25 m (~82 feet) or 50 m (~164 feet) long and at least 1.35 m (~4.4 feet) deep. Competition pools are generally indoors and heated to enable their use all year round, and to more easily comply with the regulations regarding temperature, lighting, and Automatic Officiating Equipment and equipment.
An Olympic sized swimming pool (first used at the 1924 Olympics) is a pool that meets FINA's additional standards for the Olympic Games and for world championship events. It must be 50 m (~164 feet) in length by 25 m (~82 feet) wide, divided into eight lanes of 2.5 m (~8.2 feet) each plus two areas of 2.5 m (~8.2 feet) at each side of the pool. The water must be kept at 25–28°C (77-82.4°F) and the lighting level at greater than 1500 lux. Depth must be at least 2 m (~6.5 feet), and there are also regulations for color of lane rope, positioning of backstroke flags (5 meters from each wall), and so on. Pools claimed to be "Olympic pools" do not always meet these regulations, as FINA cannot police use of the term. Touchpads are mounted on both walls for long course meets and each end for short course.
A pool may be referred to as fast or slow, depending on its physical layout. Some design considerations allow the reduction of swimming resistance making the pool faster. Namely, proper pool depth, elimination of currents, increased lane width, energy absorbing racing lane lines and gutters, and the use of other innovative hydraulic, acoustic and illumination designs.
Exercise pools
In the last two decades, a new style of pool has gained popularity. These consist of a small vessel (usually about 2.5 m x 5 m) in which the swimmer swims in place, either against the push of an artificially generated water current or against the pull of restraining devices. These pools have several names, such as swim spas, swimming machines, or swim systems. They are all examples of different modes of resistance swimming.
Hot tubs and spa pools
Hot tubs and spa pools are common heated pools used for relaxation and sometimes for therapy. Commercial spas are common in the swimming pool area or sauna area of a health club or fitness centre, in men's clubs, women's clubs, motels and exclusive five star hotel suites. Spa clubs may have very large pools, some segmented into increasing temperatures. In Japan, men's clubs with many spas of different size and temperature are common. Commercial spas are generally made of concrete, with a mosaic tiled interior. Hot tubs are typically made somewhat like a wine barrel with straight sides, from wood such as Californian redwood held in place by metal hoops. Immersion of the head is not recommended in spas or hot tubs due to a potential risk of underwater entrapment from the pump suction forces. However commercial installations in many countries must comply with various safety standards which reduce this risk considerably.
Home spas are a worldwide retail item in western countries since the 1980s, and are sold in dedicated spa stores, pool shops, department stores, the Internet, and catalog sales books. They are almost always made from heat-extruded acrylic sheet Perspex, often colored in marble look-alike patterns. They rarely exceed 8 ft² (2,400 mm²) and are typically 3 ft 6 in (1 m) deep, restricted by the availability of the raw sheet sizes (typically manufactured in Japan). There is often a mid-depth seating or lounging system, and contoured lounger style reclining seats are common. Upmarket spas include various jet nozzles (massage, pulsating etc.), a drinks tray, lights, LCD flat-screen TV sets and other features that make the pool a recreation center. Due to their family-oriented nature, home spas are normally operated from 36°C to 39°C (97-102°F). Many pools are incorporated in a redwood or simulated wood surround, and are termed "portable" as they may be placed on a patio rather than sunken into a permanent location. Some portable spas are shallow and narrow enough to fit sideways through a standard door and be used inside a room. Low power electric immersion heaters are common with home spas.
Whirlpool tubs first became popular in America during the 1960s and 70's. A spa is also called a "jacuzzi" in USA since the word became a generic after plumbing component manufacturer Jacuzzi introduced the "Spa Whirlpool" in 1968. Air bubbles may be introduced into the nozzles via an air-bleed venturi pump that combines cooler air with the incoming heated water to cool the pool if the temperature rises uncomfortably high. Some spas have a constant stream of bubbles fed via the seating area of the pool, or a footwell area. This is more common as a temperature control device where the heated water comes from a natural (uncontrolled heat) geothermal source, rather than artificially heated. Water temperature is usually very warm to hot — 38°C to 42°C (100 to 108 °F), so bathers usually stay in for only 20 to 30 minutes. Bromine or mineral sanitizers are often recommended as sanitizers for spas because chlorine dissipates at a high temperature thereby heightening its strong chemical smell. Ozone is an effective bactericide and is commonly included in the circulation system with cartridge filtration, but not with sand media filtration due to clogging problems with turbid body fats.
Ocean pools
In the early 20th century, especially in Australia, ocean pools, called lidos, were built typically on headlands by enclosing part of the rock shelf, with water circulated through the pools by flooding from tidal tanks or by regular flooding over the side of the pools at high tide. There were often separate pools for women and men, or the pool was open to the sexes at different times with a break for bathers to come without fear of observation by the other sex. Segregated changing sheds and showers were provided. These were the fore-runners of modern 'Olympic' pools. A variation was the later development of sea- or harbour-side pools that circulated sea water using pumps. A pool of this type was the training ground for Australian Olympian Dawn Fraser.
Infinity pools
An infinity pool (also named negative edge or vanishing edge pool) is a swimming pool which produces a visual effect of water extending to the horizon, vanishing, or extending to "infinity". Often, the water appears to fall into an ocean, lake, bay, or other similar body of water. The effect is best captured in a pool where the liner color matches the body of water it is "falling" into.
Other uses
Swimming pools are also used for events such as synchronized swimming, water polo and canoe polo as well as for teaching diving and lifesaving techniques. They have also been used for specialist tasks such as teaching water-ditching survival techniques for aircraft and submarine crews and astronaut training. Round-cornered, irregular swimming pools, drained of water, were the first surfaces used for vertical skateboarding.
Sanitation
Swimming pool water must be maintained at low levels of bacteria and viruses to prevent the spread of diseases and pathogens between users. Bacteria, algae and insect larvae can also enter the pool without help from swimmers, and cause disease to swimmers and other people in the area.
Pumps and mechanical filters are often used to filter such pathogens out of the water. Chemical disinfectants, such as hypochlorous acid, sodium hypochlorite (household bleach), bromine, salt or mineral sanitizers, are used to make the water inhospitable to pathogens. These substances also turn the water into a faded blue/green color.
The subprime mortgage crisis in the United States caused many people to leave their homes without emptying their swimming pools. This resulted in the pools turning green with algae and becoming mosquito breeding grounds in less than a week.
Winterization
In areas which reach freezing temperature, it is important to close a pool properly. This varies greatly between inground and aboveground pools. By taking steps to properly secure the pool, it lessens the likelihood that the superstructure will be damaged or compromised by freezing water.
Closing vinyl and fibreglass pools
In preparation for freezing temperatures, an in-ground swimming pool's pipes must be emptied. An above-ground pool should also be closed, so that ice does not drag down the pool wall, collapsing its structure. The plumbing is sealed with air, typically with rubber plugs, to prevent cracking from freezing water. The pool is typically covered to prevent leaves and other debris from falling in. The cover is attached to the pool typically using a stretch cord, similar to a bungee cord and hooks fitted into the pool surround. The skimmer is closed off or a floating device is placed into it to prevent it from completely freezing and cracking. Floating objects such as life rings or basketballs can be placed in the pool to avoid its freezing under the cover. Drain plugs on the pool filter are removed after the filter has been cleaned. The pool pump motor is taken under cover. Winter chemicals are added to keep the pool clean.
In climates where there is no risk of freezing, closing down the pool for winter is not so important. Typically, the thermal cover is removed and stored. Winter sunlight can create an algae mess when a cover that has been left on all winter is removed. The pool is correctly pH-balanced and super-chlorinated. One litre algaecide for every 50,000 litres of pool water should be added, and topped up each month. The pool should be filtered for one to two hours daily to keep the automated chlorination system active.
Covers
Swimming pool heating costs can be significantly reduced by using a pool cover. Use of a pool cover also can help reduce the amount of chemicals (chlorine, etc) required by the pool. Outdoor pools gain heat from the sun, absorbing 75%–85% of the solar energy striking the pool surface. Though a cover decreases the total amount of solar heat absorbed by the pool, the cover eliminates heat loss due to evaporation and reduces heat loss at night through its insulating properties.
The heating effectiveness of a cover depends on type. A transparent bubble cover is the most effective, as it allows the largest amount of solar flux into the pool itself. A darker cover absorbs more sunlight directly, allowing temperature to rise faster, but ultimately prevents the pool from reaching as high a temperature as a clear cover.
Pool cover automation
A pool cover can be either manually, semi-automatically, or automatically operated. Manual covers can be folded and stored in a convenient location. Pool cover reels can also be used to help manually roll up the pool cover. The reel, usually on wheels, can be rolled out of the way.
Semi-automatic covers use a motor-driven reel system. They use electrical power to roll and unroll the cover, but usually require someone to pull on the cover when unrolling, or guide the cover onto the reel when rolling up the cover. Semi-automatic covers can be built into the pool deck surrounding the pool, or can use reels on carts.
Automatic covers have permanently mounted reels that automatically cover and uncover the pool at the push of a button. They are the most expensive option, but are also the most convenient.
Some pool covers fit into tracks along the sides of the pool. This prevents anything or anybody from getting into the pool. They even support the weight of several people. They can be run manually, semi-automatically, or automatically. Safety covers may be required by inspectors for public pools.
Pool cover materials
There are three main materials used for pool covers: Vinyl, thermal bubble and debris.
- Vinyl covers
Vinyl covers consist of a heavier material and have a longer life expectancy than bubble covers. Insulated vinyl covers are also available with a thin layer of flexible insulation sandwiched between two layers of vinyl.
- Thermal bubble covers
Thermal bubble covers are lightweight UV stabilized floating covers designed to minimize heat loss on heated swimming pools. Typically they are only fitted in spring and fall (autumn) when the temperature difference between pool water and air temperature is greatest. They raise temperature of a pool by around 20 °Fahrenheit, or 11 °Celsius, after being on the pool for a week. Most swimming pool heat loss is through evaporation.
Bubble covers are typically applied and removed by being rolled up on a device fitted to one side of the pool (see illustration). Covers fall apart after 4 or 5 years due to sun exposure, overheating in the sun while off the pool, and chlorine attacking the plastic.
Bubble covers should be removed during super chlorination.
These covers are mandatory to be fitted to all pools in areas of Australia that have experienced drought since 2006. This is an effort to conserve water, as much water evaporates and transpires.
- Debris covers
These covers are typically attached all winter, by hooked bungee cords or hooked springs connected to the pool deck, and are usually made of black or green fine PVC mesh. They are designed to stop leaf debris from entering the pool. They also provide some safety for animals and small children, but should not be relied on. They are not popular in warmer climates, due to the five to ten minutes it takes to fit/remove, making them inconvenient for repeated application and removal.
Safety
Pools present a significant risk of infant and toddler death due to drowning. In regions where residential pools are common, drowning is a major cause of childhood fatalities. Therefore it is advisable to closely watch small children around swimming pools, especially private pools that do not have professional lifeguards. Adults are more likely to be aware of risks, but it is still a good idea to have more than one person around when using a private pool. As a precaution, many municipalities have by-laws that require that residential pools be enclosed with fencing to restrict unauthorized access.
In public pools there is a lower risk of accident, with trained lifeguards on duty whenever the pool is open. Because of the risk of drowning and the desire for greater safety, and technological advances that make such safety possible, more and more public pools are equipped with computer-aided drowning prevention or other forms of electronic and sometimes automated safety and security systems. Among these are the Poseidon system, Swimguard, and the Drowning Early Warning System (DEWS).
The best way to ensure safety around pools is to be educated. Knowing how a swimming pool works greatly improves safety. Long haired individuals must avoid water inlets. These inlets, also known as skimmers, are rectangular holes on the wall that are sometimes partly or completely underwater. In private pools there can be one to two inlets, in public pools five to twenty. Also to be avoided are the main drains, usually identified as round mesh covered objects on the pool floor, as poor design can occasionally cause a safety problem. Building codes and product standards have eliminated these hazards for current designs, but not all pools are up to standard.
Also the bigger the body of water, the greater force it needs to have the water circulating. Stronger water pumps are used on large pools to keep them healthy, so extra care must be taken when swimming along the sides or floor of the pool, where drains are present. Some pools are designed without drains, which will 100% eliminate the potential of suction entrapment.
People with recent piercings are advised to keep those from being submerged in pools, to avoid them being infected.
Suspended ceilings in indoor swimming pools are safety-relevant components. As was demonstrated by the collapses of the ceiling of the Uster (Switzerland) indoor swimming pool (1985) and again at Steenwijk (Netherlands, 2001), attention must be paid to selecting suitable materials and inspecting the state of such components. The reason for the failures was stress corrosion cracking of metal fastening components made of stainless steel
There is also the problem with chemical exposure from chlorinated swimming pools. Numerous scientific studies have shown increased instances of Asthma of those who swim regularly or those who work in and around indoor swimming pools. Another study with children found that kids who swam in indoor swimming pools for 1.8 hours or more a week had lung conditions similar to those of a heavy smoker. Also chlorine exposure from swimming pools has been shown to increase the risk of bladder and kidney cancer by more than 56% and it was also noted in the 2000 Olympics in Sydney Australia, where 25% of the U.S Olympic swim team suffered from some level of Asthma.
Dress code
In public swimming pools dress code may be stricter than on public beaches, and in indoor pools stricter than outdoor pools. For example, in countries where women can be topless on the beach, this is often not allowed in a swimming pool, especially one indoors (see swimsuit).
Dress codes are also stricter in pools than on beaches: wearing shoes, and a shirt, on a beach is acceptable, but often not in a pool. Indoor pools have stricter dress codes than outdoor pools: in outdoor pools, men are often allowed to wear t-shirts for modesty or for protection from sunburn, but in indoor pools they must usually go shirtless. At beaches, many people swim with clothes on and wear beachwear, but at pools (especially indoor pools) more minimal attire is often worn, such as lycra briefs for men or lycra one-piece tanksuits for women. Swimming with clothes on (for example, as practice for the prevention of drowning, as one might fall off a boat clothed) often results in objections from lifeguards at pools, especially indoor pools. In France, board shorts are usually not allowed for hygiene reasons. In Scandinavian countries and in particular Iceland, rules about clothing and hygiene are especially strict. More recently, dress codes in many pools were relaxed to allow more modesty. Many pool operators allow people to swim fully clothed in clothes they only use in the pool if they shower in these clothes before entering the pool.[citation needed]
For diving from towers perhaps 10 m high, sometimes bathing suits are doubled up (i.e., men will often wear one brief inside another) so that the swimsuit does not rip on impact with the water. While splashing around on beaches, especially on urban beaches, looser fitting bathing attire that is more modest is often worn.
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